Routes : North America : United States : California : San Bernardino County : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : Coyote Crag : Black Magic Poodle
Black Magic Poodle - 5.10a

Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (34)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock
bolts
|
|
Description:
The left-most route on the main face starts by climbing up a wedged log to the first bolt. Good edges throughout with a nice variety of moves. A recommended route of the area for the grade.
Submitted by: fungusamungus on 2005-08-08
Views: 1623
Route ID: 18386
34 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 34 ascent notes
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | |
Safety Rating | G |
is pretty awesome route
is pretty awesome
Added: 2012-07-21
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | 5.10b |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
Log
Weird to start on a log. At least it has foot holds.
Fun climb. A few pumpy parts.
Fun climb. A few pumpy parts.
Added: 2011-08-16
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | 5.10a |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
3rd bolt
Getting to and around the 3rd bolt is the crux. I worked my way up to the left of the 3rd bolt following the crack and wedging my left hip on the upward sloping shelf. Saw people top rope it by going way right and way left which could be easier but may not be on route. Upper face past the crux is slightly overhung but the holds are all there.
Added: 2011-07-04
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | |
Safety Rating | G |
Fun
Fun route, likely 5.10a vs reported 5.9. Definitely harder than anything on Gold Wall.
Added: 2011-07-03
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
Good climb
I was initially told this was a 5.8, but 5.10a seems much more appropriate. Some parts make it difficult to know whether to go right, left, or straight, but overall a good climb.
Added: 2010-11-30