Routes : North America : United States : Oklahoma : Southwest : Wichita Mountains : Zoo Wall : The Unfinished Piece
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The Unfinished Piece - 5.6
Average Rating : 2.75 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (11)
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Description:
This trade route was mysteriously absent from the latest guidebook. The route starts at a cedar tree immediately to the left of the Yellow Corner and underneat a large roof (Sweet Jesus). Two alternatives exist for the start. You can start directly below the huge roof, cruising up an easy ramp about halfway towards the roof, then traverse towards the right. Alternatively go straight up from the cedar using a couple of easy jugs in a line intersecting the right edge of the roof. In either case step over a bulge into a clean dihedral slot ending at a dead tree. From here there are also two variations, left or directly up. If going left you may want to belay in the vicinity of the tree (2-3 inch pieces). The direct finish takes the obvious slot up from the dead tree area - feels harder than 5.6 (maybe 5.8?). The not-so-direct finish traverses left 10 feet or so from the dead tree towards another more slabbly slot (5.6) with some good exposure, easier climbing but with fewer gear placements. If you've climbed this numerous times it appears there's a hand crack between the two finishes that could also be used for a change of pace.
Submitted by: cordata on 2006-01-15
Views: 1474
Route ID: 19464
Most Recent Photo
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11 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 11 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.6 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Henrey and I
Henry and I climbed this after setting gear for an hour or so on Henry's Intermidiate class.
Added: 2013-04-15
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
BS 5.6
This is NOT a 5.6. At the roof you have slopping slab for foot work with thin holds to pull and a funky drop knee is required to advance and then stem out as you pull the roof. I don't care what anybody says, it's not 5.6, no way, no how. I'm going to say 5.7, but I may even go as high as 5.8. The exposure moving to the roof and pulling the roof is nice! But overall, really fun route.
**edit to my original note** Recently saw an REALLY old guide book. It shows the 5.6 line going left of the slot above the tree. That line is the 5.6, but pulling the "roof-slot" is more like a 5.8. Either way the top-out is dicey. Little protection exists going far left.
**edit to my original note** Recently saw an REALLY old guide book. It shows the 5.6 line going left of the slot above the tree. That line is the 5.6, but pulling the "roof-slot" is more like a 5.8. Either way the top-out is dicey. Little protection exists going far left.
Added: 2009-01-03
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.6 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Red Point ascent by:
Finished it,
Took the direct finish this time, and pretty good.
Added: 2008-05-05
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Original partner: Joel Dworkin
Added: 2006-11-16
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | |
Ascent Note
5.6 if you use your feet corectly, up to the hand jam
Added: 2006-10-12
