Routes : North America : United States : Washington : Central Washington : The Stuart Range : Mt. Stuart : N. Ridge of Mt. Stuart (Great Gendarme var.)
N. Ridge of Mt. Stuart (Great Gendarme var.) - 5.9
Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (11)
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Rock
G
1/2 inches to 4 inches
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Description:
Long "50 classic" route that includes glacier travel and 20 pitches of climbing on an exposed ridge.
Submitted by: david_smithrock on 2006-09-14
Last Modified: 2007-09-05
Views: 1988
Route ID: 22480
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11 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 11 ascent notes
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | G |
Fun Factor |
Onsight ascent by: critterdude542 on 2013-09-11
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complete north ridge
Opted for the complete N ridge which ended up being a LOT more climbing! left TH at 2:30am. ingalls pass, got lost, stuart pass, goat pass. climbing by 8:50. summited at maybe like 5:45. descended the cascadian death march and it got dark and by 11 we decided to bivy. After a brutal cold night, we hiked up and over some pass and met the trail and back at the car. If I did it again i'd probably just do the upper ridge.
Added: 2013-09-11
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Difficulty | |
Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by: Matt_Akers on 2011-08-27
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Beautiful!
Up to Lake Ingalls, across to Goat Pass, across the Stuart Glacier, up the North Ridge, Down the Cascadian Col, up Longs Peak, back to the trailhead. 1 day push. Left @ 3:30AM back at 8:00PM. Simul-climbed everything but the Gendarme pitches. Words can't describe this route. Absolutely amazing. Bring an iPod for the hiking.
Added: 2011-08-28
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: lucander on 2008-09-11
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Gendarme
An exceptionally good route, 14 hours from camp near Ingalls and back. Crossing the Stuart Glacier in Tennis shoes is not advised in late season ice conditions...eep!
Added: 2008-09-17
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Onsight ascent by: david_smithrock on 2006-09-12
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Ascent Note
Long day! Did entire ridge, down Cascadian, over Goat pass, across Stuart Glacier, and bashing through forest and boulder fields back to car in 17 hours.
Witnessed by: Dave M.
Added: 2006-09-12
Added: 2006-09-12
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Onsight ascent by: forkliftdaddy on 2006-08-06
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Ascent Note
Fantastic route and the gendarme is STELLAR. Swung leads and simulclimbed some. Layback pitch has good locks, jams and holds w/decent feet. Find fist and forearm jams in the wide crack. Descent is long and tortuous. We left camp in the meadow below Ingalls Lake at 3 AM, hit the glacier at 5 AM, summitted at 2 PM, and got back to camp around 9 PM.
Added: 2006-08-06