Rip Van Winkle - 5.7

The first pitch had the highest rating but didn't seem any harder than any of the other pitches. The start is easy to find, with a large block sitting slightly right of the base of the route. The guidebook listed the first bolt as being old but it looked good to me. The first pitch shares a belay with A Tall Climb to Be Good On. From the first belay, I am not 100% positive that we followed the correct line due to very vague beta in the book. We ended up climbing up through a small, fun roof that led up to some cracks and bushes with multiple slings attached. The pitch is supposed to end up on a large tree ledge but there was water running down the rock where we needed to go, so I used a large tree to the left, that was also wrapped with slings, for a belay. We were able to climb behind the tree through a dry spot up to the ledge. The third pitch starts from the right side of the tree ledge at a left facing corner. The corner had a nice crack and was easily protected but beware of rope drag. At the top of the crack was another exciting, although minor roof (I'm guessing this is what was referred to as vertical steps in the guidebook). The pitch ends at a wide crack (again, according to the book). There were several cracks, so we chose the one to the right. The line goes up and slightly to the right through some moderate rock into a wall with big holds and lots of vegetation. There were not any good gear placements, so I wrapped slings around some of the bigger holds. At the top of the pitch, right where the trail on Lightning Ledge begins, there is a bolted rappel/belay station to the left. I didn't even see it at first.

I lead all four pitches for a party of three and it ended up taking us a while to get to the summit. I did enjoy the climb but there was a little more vegetation and water than I like to deal with. I'm sure the water is not a problem during the dry months. If you can climb My Route, then you will have no problem with this one. Just be prepared for semi-difficult route finding.

After a 20 year hiatus from climbing, I lead into this pitch with no knowledge of the rating, or for that matter the designated route. Got up to the crux, led through, then up and right to an area between the crux and the standard double belay anchor, where I set up atop rope for my kids. None of the three (ages 13, 16, and 18) could get past the crux. In fact, only my youngest was able to get past the first 10 feet (I wouldn't let them push off the adjacent boulder which makes the first few moves onto the face unrewarding). My 13 year old made it to the crux before slipping off with a pendulum to the right. To remove the top rop anchor, I led on up and right to the double bolts at the standard belay ledge, set up another top rope, then had my son belay me while I downclimbed to remove the 3 pieces of Pro I placed to secure the top rope. I then climbed back up to the double bolts and rapelled down. It was a fun day. I hope to get back for more in the near future.

OK route, but some funky cracks for pro - very irregular. Nice solid bolt at traverse and the belay. Just keep going in the same direction as the bolt (up and right) and you'll find the anchor. Same anchor as A Tall Climb To Be Good On and directly over that bolt line, past the bulge. Fairly relaxed, felt it was easier than P1 of Helmet Buttress (and less scary) although it is similar in style and line.

Short crux with some cruising in between.

First Trad lead