Routes : North America : United States : Utah : Moab : Indian Creek : North Sixshooter : Lightning Bolt Cracks
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Lightning Bolt Cracks - 5.11a
Average Rating : 4.80 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (29)
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Rock
1 set of cams from smallest Camalot to 3.5 (doubles in .5 to 3.5) and stoppers. Optional #4 big bro.
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Description:
3 pitch crack climb with large roof and spectacular exposure. P1: Jams finger and thin hands to wide hands and akward off-width slot section. Short (.9) traverse left to belay. P2: Jams off-hands and fist, over bulge to hands corner crack. Belay under left side of huge roof. P3: Jam up and out to large roof. Work through roof (.10) with good pro and jam cracks to (.9) squeeze chimney. Belay on summit. Descent: 2 raps, first to notch and second to ground on west side.Beware the ball-bearing mud talus cone approach!
Submitted by: gambler on 2004-06-29
Views: 2375
Route ID: 29016
Most Recent Photos (See all 8 photos)
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29 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 29 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by:
really nice
I led P1, P3 (the left version) and P4. Very fun
Added: 2013-10-17
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11c |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
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Lightening Bolts w/ .11+ var.
w/Wade ...did .11+ fingers link w/p1
Added: 2012-10-15
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
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Second ascent by:
shorter than it looks
Great route, accidentally did it in 2 pitches. This is not recommended... imagine doing a squeeze chimney with 300lbs of rope drag. The cow skull is still there.
Added: 2010-12-11
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
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finally! long awaited but worth it.
casual approach from the NW. car to car 6hrs -no rush, relaxed perhaps a half hour on the summit. Favorite pitch:#3. Almost greased out of the squeeze near the top when my foot slipped!! recommend: 1ea 0.5-1", 2ea #1,2,4camalot, 3ea #3, 1ea #3.5 & a few small nuts. 1 70M gets you off.
Added: 2010-11-07
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
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Climb of a lifetime!
Got on this route with Greg and Tom. I led the first pitch no falls. Quite exciting when it gets wide! Tom led the next pitch. He decided to take the right-most crack. I thought the left crack looked easier. After falling low, he dogged up the rest of the pitch. I almost fell going from the ring-locks off the belay to the safety of the wide crack to the left. Ended up going back to the hard crack after chimneying up a bit on the left. Tough line over the roof. Greg led the last pitch. Tom went second and screwed me by not back-clipping the pieces to the roof. If I fell off before pulling the roof, oh boy, lotsa air! Got to the top and celebrated with the boys.
Added: 2009-05-05
