Routes : North America : United States : Colorado : High Peaks : Mt. Evans : Black Wall : Good Evans
PreviousGood Evans - 5.11a
Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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Rock
Small nuts to a 4 Camalot. Bring doubles (or even triples) in the 3-3.5 Friend Range.
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Description:
The rappels place you about 30 ft. to the left of this climb. Follow a flake weakness to a crack system that splits into a "Y". Take the left variation of the "Y" as it thins and gets tricky (crux). Worry not, you'll find a good nut before you have to commit. Traverse a left angling ledge at the end of this crack/seam to the belay. The next pitch follows a flake (9) to its top to access a hand to wide hands crack. Either belay in the first alcove, or better yet continue around an easy roof (8) to a good stance above. Follow up the crack system as it steepens. Beware of a few loose sections. Continue throught the steepness and move left under and around a roof to a small ledge (10-) with a bolt to belay. Finally, a move left and up through weaknesses on a short and easy pitch to the top (5 or 6). Set a belay back from the edge under a massive rock/boulder or wherever else you can find it. The first time I did this climb it started raining as we started P2. Only the first and last pitch got wet due to the steepness of the route. Very high quality for a little done alpine route.
Submitted by: uncle_big_green on 2002-12-19
Views: 1549
Route ID: 29055
4 Ascents Recorded
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| Difficulty | 5.10d |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery |  |
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Onsight ascent by:
Fun route
Climbed with Purf. No harder than 5.10d
Added: 2008-08-04
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| Safety Rating | G |
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Great location
This wall is so cool--forbidding and mysterious. You walk on flat ground, then all of a sudden you're at the edge of a gaping, dark abyss. This climb isn't super long, but it feels a bit committing since you rapped in. I remember the bottom was very nice, and the top was pretty steep but disturbingly loose in places.
Added: 2007-03-30
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Top Rope ascent by:
Ascent Note
my first high altitude technical climb. i'm a solid .10+ climber at 6,000', but higher up, it becomes much harder.
they say the crux pitch is p1, with 1-2 moves as a finger crack... to me that was no problem because it wasn't sustained. it was harder (for me) on other pitches because of sustained crack climbing moves (p2 turning into a hand/arm offwidth).
what an awesome climb, though. easy approach, beautiful views, no crowds, and classic granite/crack. many more fa's could be established in this area if you want to put in the time, money and effort. loved it!
-kelly.
they say the crux pitch is p1, with 1-2 moves as a finger crack... to me that was no problem because it wasn't sustained. it was harder (for me) on other pitches because of sustained crack climbing moves (p2 turning into a hand/arm offwidth).
what an awesome climb, though. easy approach, beautiful views, no crowds, and classic granite/crack. many more fa's could be established in this area if you want to put in the time, money and effort. loved it!
-kelly.
Witnessed by: d'antonio
Added: 2004-08-02
Added: 2004-08-02
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Ascent Note
No comment
Added: 2004-07-30
