Routes : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : Tantalus Wall : Wrist Twister
PreviousWrist Twister - A3
Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (7)
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Aid
hooks, heads, nuts, small cams. Guide calls for cams to 4.5 inches, but I didn't need any on the fi
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Description:
Approach up the bullethead gully, heading left at a fixed line on the side. Follow the trail to a nice belay ledge. follow rivets and bolts with some cams, hooks and heads in between up past one belay station the bolts will go up, but there will be a station to the left. Go up the bolts to a higher station and belay there(A3). Go up, passing one station and belaying at the second(A3). Go straight up again, mostly bolts, rivets and hooking. Some holes are hard to fine toward the top. (A2+). According to the guide if done clean, the climb goes at C4. Descent: Heading south will bring you behind the Bullet Heads and you will eventually exit by Slot Machine. Heading North will most likely bring you toward the South Summit trail, but I haven't tried or heard about this exit.
Submitted by: peas on 2006-02-19
Views: 2137
Route ID: 32675
7 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 7 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | A2+ |
| Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by:
excellent mini-bigwall
good route to work out aid technique, hauling, and all of that other jazz that you need to wire before doing a bigwall. This was my parter's first "real" aid route, and he lead the first and third pitches. It was a good afternoon.
nice exposure too.
nice exposure too.
Added: 2010-05-17
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | A2+ |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor |  |
Hang Dog ascent by:
dwindling fixed gear
took a friend up this for his first multi-pitch aid climb last weekend. Good fun as always, much less fixed gear than other times I've been up. Looks like somebody zippered a few heads low on pitch 2, big ugly pods with granite dust in the back. Got a bomber beak in rather than replace a head. Lots of the fixed heads are cracking, you should expect to need to replace one or more.
Bolts low down are getting rustier, maybe it's time I got around to replacing a few...
Biggest piece this time was a red camalot, never felt the need for anything bigger.
Bolts low down are getting rustier, maybe it's time I got around to replacing a few...
Biggest piece this time was a red camalot, never felt the need for anything bigger.
Added: 2010-02-10
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | A2+ |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Wrist Twister Ascent
With yetanotherdave. I got pitches 1 and 2. Hand placed one pecker behind a dead head. Offset aliens useful, but not necessary. Metolius scalloped nuts nice.
Added: 2007-04-30
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | A3 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
dowels scare me...
TR at http://www.bigwalls.com/forum2/index.php?topic=184.0
Added: 2007-02-18
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
Ascent Note
I lead the 1st and 3rd pitch. 1 cam pulled on the first pitch just before the exit from the traverse. My first aid fall. Unfortunately most of the 1st and 3rd pitches are bolt ladders. The 2nd pitch is where the money is, but I got to lead it on my first attempt. We replaced one fixed line in the gully, but there are a couple more ratty lines that should be replaced soon.
Witnessed by: Karl Manzer, a whole bunch of people driving by on the highway
Added: 2006-02-18
Added: 2006-02-18
