Routes : North America : United States : Alaska : Southcentral Rock & Ice : Archangel Valley : Aurora Slab : Aurora Slabialous
Aurora Slabialous - 5.8
Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Rock
Thin nuts to two inches.
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Description:
This is an incredible route, and well worth the hike in. It is an area classic despite the approach. Climb the left side of the slab next to a large inside corner, following a network of thin cracks for 140 feet to a belay on a knife-edged ridge. The pitons that used to make up the belay appear to be gone. Gear belay and rap off a jammed knot, or maybe walk off the backside?.
Submitted by: faust on 2004-08-14
Views: 954
Route ID: 32708
3 Ascents Recorded
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Difficulty | 5.6 |
Safety Rating | G |
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Second ascent by: sir_climbsalot on 2008-08-14
(View Climbing Log)
Aurora Slabialous
Well I've finally made it back outside to climb after a couple of years away! Man how I missed it. Coldclimb and I opted for this route, partly because it was in the direction we were headed and partly to "ease" me back in to climbing ;-). Man it didn't disappoint. I wouldn't call this a -5.8, more like a 5.6, borderline 5.7, but none the less, a wonderfully fun climb with absolutely beautiful scenery to go with. The bottom 1/4 -1/3 of the route is a bit wet, even when the weather has been dry for days. The route is just loaded with great placements for pro, so no worries there. There is a pretty nice double biner anchor at the top attached with knotted up cord wedged in a crack, but we placed two more equalized nuts just in case. The route is just long enough for a 50 meter rope, with about 10 feet left over. If you decide to rap off you'll have to veer to the right of the slab, which means you'll have to negotiate the steep grassy slope to get back down all the way, which will make your hole pucker up if the grass is wet. All in all a very fun climb with a fun and steep approach! Make sure to check out the old mine equipment on your way up, especially the nails nest to the old generator. The bucket rotted away a long time ago, but the nails are still there and they retained the shape of the bucket!
Added: 2008-08-25
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Top Rope ascent by: cgailey on 2005-06-25
(View Climbing Log)
Ascent Note
Very, very good. Wish it were my lead...
Added: 2005-06-25
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Red Point ascent by: faust on 2004-08-13
(View Climbing Log)
Ascent Note
Two thumbs up! Great climb that takes great protection, lots of passive gear. No way its 5.8 though, 5.6 might be closer. Very good beginner lead.
Witnessed by: Ben and John
Added: 2004-08-13
Added: 2004-08-13