Routes : North America : United States : California : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Middle Earth : Orthanc
Orthanc - 5.8
Average Rating : 3.14 out of 5Route sequence (left to right): 8
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (10)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock
G
1 bolt
|
|
Description:
Slab/face. Use this ascent to set up a TR for middle finger.
Submitted by: njari on 2008-04-09
Views: 1447
Route ID: 33791
Most Recent Photo
10 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 10 ascent notes
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | 5.8 |
Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by: porkchop_express on 2012-01-18
(View Climbing Log)
short.
not bad though, just really short. wouldnt solo it because getting down would be sketchy.
Added: 2012-05-18
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | 5.7 |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Onsight ascent by: brap on 2012-01-03
(View Climbing Log)
one bolt?
As mentioned below, there isn't a bolt at the top. There's a fixed pin on the opposite side but it's not something I personally would lower off of. I was getting ready to bail a stopper and someone yelled to me to use the anchor on the middle finger climb. There are 2 bolts (middle finger anchor) on the wrong face (90 degrees off), that must be threaded.
So your choices are to downclimb (not THAT bad) or clip in direct to the bolts and thread the rope. Bad setup. Like mentioned below you will groundfall from the top and the landing is a bunch of sharp boulders.
It's tempting to climb up this because it's easy and seems so cool to sit atop the middle finger. If your slab downclimbing is solid, it's no problem. Otherwise steer clear.
ONLY CLIMB THIS IF YOU ARE SETTING UP A TR ON MIDDLE FINGER. THIS IS NOT AN ACTUAL CLIMB IN ITSELF.
So your choices are to downclimb (not THAT bad) or clip in direct to the bolts and thread the rope. Bad setup. Like mentioned below you will groundfall from the top and the landing is a bunch of sharp boulders.
It's tempting to climb up this because it's easy and seems so cool to sit atop the middle finger. If your slab downclimbing is solid, it's no problem. Otherwise steer clear.
ONLY CLIMB THIS IF YOU ARE SETTING UP A TR ON MIDDLE FINGER. THIS IS NOT AN ACTUAL CLIMB IN ITSELF.
Added: 2012-02-14
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | 5.8 |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
Onsight ascent by: Facelyss on 2008-06-05
(View Climbing Log)
.
I roped this thinking there would be a bolt at top, but there wasn't. In fact, the protection seems kind of useless on this route. I ended up downclimbing it anyways. Just be careful.
Added: 2008-06-05
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | 5.8 |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Solo ascent by: McKnight on 2008-04-22
(View Climbing Log)
Solo on Orthanc (Down climbed)
I couldn't really enjoy this climb that much cause i did it solo. Very stupid choice, Don't do it solo. I got to the top and wanted down right away haha. The downclimb was scary, but could be done very carefully.
Added: 2008-05-24
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | 5.8 |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Onsight ascent by: quiteatingmysteak on 2007-07-04
(View Climbing Log)
.
.
Added: 2007-07-04