Routes : North America : United States : California : Riverside County : Tahquitz Rock : South Face Area : Open Book
Open Book - 5.9 popular

Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (59)
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Description:
South West Side. This is America's first 5.9, a nice dihedral with the first ascent by Royal Robbins in the sixties. Think about that as you plug in your mechanical hardware supported by your high tech climbing shoes accompanied by modern belay techniques. A true classic! I appologize for the tangent. A very worthwhile climb that will test your skills over a wide range. Sweet!
Submitted by: rrradam on 2001-11-16
Views: 4484
Route ID: 3490
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59 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 59 ascent notes
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | R |
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Beware the Start.
The "crux" is not the crux, the "bouldery start" is more like a solo. I think i went to far right on the start and had some seriously sketchy moves back to the crack. I think next time I'll just take the 10 C direct start. The flake was easy, and well protected, I think people are just scared of the move. The offwidth above could use a couple #4's, anybody who says otherwise is just trying to impress you with their runouts.
It's definitely a 5.9, but I wouldn't recommend this climb to 5.9 climbers. (Oh, and it was the worlds first 5.9, but that's only because the rest of the world didn't use the YDS) - I think I'm grumpy today, my notes are pissy.
It's definitely a 5.9, but I wouldn't recommend this climb to 5.9 climbers. (Oh, and it was the worlds first 5.9, but that's only because the rest of the world didn't use the YDS) - I think I'm grumpy today, my notes are pissy.
Added: 2012-07-13
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | G |
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America's first 5.9
And it's terrific. Has a little bit of everything, starting out with a bouldery, steep sequence. P1 was my fav, especially navigating the flake. P2 is sustained and i switched off and on from shoulder scumming to laying it back.
Added: 2011-07-20
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | G |
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I don't think it is 5.9...
(start stupid grade argument here, just kidding!) Beautiful line with good moves. I gleaned gear beta from a couple different parties and the recommendations were all over the place. Ended up taking 2 #3's and 2 #4's, only ended up placing the #4 once as there always seemed to be other options. There is a good stretch of 3-4" crack (wide hands and shoulder scum or lieback) on pitch 2 so if you are not confident bring extras. I won't give away the beta for the 5.6R traverse but I will say it is not that bad, especially compared to other heady Tahquitz climbing.
Added: 2011-07-12
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Difficulty | |
Safety Rating | G |
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Beautiful!
Led pitch 1 to the ledge above the flake, followed pitch 2 to just below the slab, led last pitch with slab and 4th class.
Added: 2011-07-05
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Safety Rating | G |
burly.
very burly.
Added: 2011-06-25