Routes : North America : United States : West Virginia : Roped Climbing : New River Gorge Region : New River & Tributaries : Junkyard Wall : Junkyard - Upstream end : Rapscallion Blues ****
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Rapscallion Blues **** - 5.10c
Average Rating : 4.38 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 11
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (29)
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Description:
Climb a beautiful, right facing dihedral to a short, right-angling crack and a roof. Pull the roof directly on slopers and stems, then squeeze left up into a short v-slot to finish. A Doug Reed/Tom Howard masterpiece from June of 1984.
Submitted by: forkliftdaddy on 2005-10-19
Views: 2052
Route ID: 37302
29 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 29 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Second ascent by:
Really amazing route
I thought it a bit hard at 10c, but it is super fun. In you face off the ground with some finger locks, then it eases up while you stem to the lie-back. The lie-back is not so bad but sticking the jug without feet is a move and then you can rest under the roof. I didn't find a graceful way to pull the roof; lots of shoulder scumming, but then you get a no hands sit-down rest. The final bulge felt hard and insecure to me. Then a few easier moves to the top.
Added: 2013-06-17
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | G |
Red Point ascent by:
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Added: 2013-04-08
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10d |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Maybe my favorite hard 10 at the New
So so good. Protects really well. A tough start, although not too bad if you finesse it, leads to great corner climbing. First crux comes as the crack moves right. Get an awkward no-hands rest under the roof, then fire the true crux to pull onto another awkward ledge. Fire the last thoughtful crux out of the v-slot to get to easier terrain.
Added: 2012-04-03
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Rock Quality | |
awesome
3 cruxes!
Added: 2011-07-05
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | G |
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Added: 2011-06-03
