Routes : North America : United States : Arizona : Southern : Cochise Stronghold : Muttonhead a.k.a Middle Sister : Mystery of the Desert
Mystery of the Desert - 5.9
Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (12)
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Description:
Starts on the far left side of the SW face. Pitch One : 5.7 I clipped the first three bolts on the face immediately to the right of Mystery Crack then followed the crack to a nice two bolt belay on a small, but comfortable ledge. Pitch Two: 5.8 On up the crack through a moderate roof protected by a bolt to another two bolt belay. Pitch Three: The Wedge. Squeeze through the slot to shift the belay or lead up over the block. Three bolts. Pitch Four: The Veg. The ramp to the left is protected by three bolts, but the original route goes up the vegetated ramp. Belay just past the top of the ramp in the shade of the last copse of trees. Pitch Five: 5.9 Layback the crack and belay at the end of the 30’ left-trending traverse. Pitch Six: 5.9 Short pitch protected by three bolts. Belay off tree at top. Descend by the gully used for Sheepshead routes.
Submitted by: xclimber on 2003-07-30
Last Modified: 2011-03-09
Views: 2102
Route ID: 38670
12 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 12 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Mystery Of The Desert
Excellent route. Most of the pitches are short so combining them is pretty easy. I found the Wedge and the layback crack as the most challanging leads. We did it 5 hrs round trip
Added: 2015-03-23
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor |  |
Mystery of the Desert
With Larry from Los Alamos. My second Cochise climb after Absinthe. Led all the pitches. I liked this route more than Absinthe. Combined the 4th-6th pitches (as laid out here) with a 70m and extending my pro, watch for rope drag though. Did the new 7th pitch. It is much more challenging than the rest of the route. Not sure how many folks have led this yet, including the FA (bolted on rap), but it is a bit harder than 5.9. Worth doing for sure.
Added: 2012-11-10
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
varied route
I placed gear from 0.3 to old-style 3.5 camalot, and maybe a stopper or two.
Added: 2012-03-01
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Mystery of the Desert
Thought that no one really did this route, but there was a crowd at the base when we returned. First pitch is a lot of fun, and the crux fourth pitch is a blast - much more difficult than it looks.
Added: 2011-03-01
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Ok route
This route is ok. Can be done in two long pitches I think if you run it out - we did it in 3. The roof is pretty cool, good gear the whole way.
Added: 2007-01-05
