Cuasak's Crack - 5.9

Bolted anchor at the top of the 5.9 pitch. Fun route, some loose rock; pitch below the 5.9 one has a couple of bolts.

The two pins at the top of the first pitch have been replaced by a two bolt station to the right of Harebell and up a few few from the main ledge. One of the old pins down lower and to the left of the bolts fell out when the rock shattered. I think the other one is still there.

There are 3 pins at the top of the main pitch of Cusak's. One is down pretty low and will probably just be a back up.

There was lots of fixed gear on the route from an old epic sometime before.

30m rap from the top of the main pitch down to the ledge below.

Better rock than I expected. Started with a variation off the Warm Up pulling two small roofs on the face below Cusak's Crack. Couldn't find the two pins the guide book said were at the base of the crack. My routefinding being marginal, I could have been on a different crack, but we followed the topo in the book. There were two fixed nuts in the crack. The two pins at the top of the crack are too far apart to use in the same anchor. The left pin seems dodgy, but there's good gear for an anchor. Don't go straight up from the left pin unless you enjoy choosing between heavy rope drag or 5.10 roof moves. There's one solid pin in a boulder pretty much straight up from the crack. The top out is exposed (i.e. don't slip) 4th class.

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