Routes : North America : United States : Washington : North Cascades : Mt Baker : Mount Baker : Coleman Headwall
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Coleman Headwall - WI4
Average Rating : 0.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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Ice
Pickets, Ice Screws
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Description:
A difficult, Grade IV alpine icefall climb in a beautiful setting. Go early season, and be prepared for near vertical sections of alpine ice with sustained climbing around 55 degrees. comment - (valeberga) I haven't climbed this route but I'm pretty sure it can be quite a bit easier than described above... it has been skiied and the average slope angle is around 45 degrees... but just to cover my arse I should add, DO NOT TRY TO SKI THIS ROUTE, YOU WILL DIE. (comment, Aikimac)Depending on conditions, it can be MORE difficult that described above. We found six full pitches of near vertical (thin) ice over snow, bad pro, hanging belays and no rests. I'd given my left nut for some 45 degree! A very serious climb! I hate it when someone with no personal knowledge of a climb feels the urge to downplay the difficulty!
Submitted by: aikimac on 2006-05-17
Views: 1013
Route ID: 43268
Most Recent Photo
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4 Ascents Recorded
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Onsight ascent by:
Ascent Note
Simul-climbed the first 1000' with running belays, good step kicking. Then six pitches of steep ice with no rests, hanging belays and BAD pro! Nine hours to the summit.
SCARY climb!
SCARY climb!
Added: 2006-05-14
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Red Point ascent by:
Ascent Note
Right, earlier on in season, not as hard. We simulsoloed the entire route, after being roped up for the glacier crossing. Definitely steep in areas, and interesting route finding involved.
Added: 2005-03-13
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Ascent Note
No comment
Added: 2004-10-26
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Ascent Note
No comment
Added: 1998-06-06
