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South Arete - 5.4

Average Rating = 4.08/5 Average Rating : 4.08 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (17)
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Rock
Tiny rack to 3"
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.82/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.82/5
  Fun Factor 4.27/5

Description:

Mostly 3rd and 4th class climb with about 30 feet of low fifth class on the first two pitches. Good beginner lead.

Submitted by: crackjammer on 2003-11-06
Views: 1968
Route ID: 43284

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17 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5 PD
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mgoodro on 2015-05-02 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Good spring climb

While most people are still skiing the nearby bowls and cols is a good time to get on this otherwise busy route. A couple sunny days in a row gave us mostly dry rock with only snow (and a bit of ice) in the chimney, around the whale's back, and near the summit block. The opening moves can be a bit awkward in boots but the friction is great. Used a half set of medium nuts, 2 medium hexes, and a 2-3 cams in the .5 to 2 inch range. Approached via the snow-filled gully from the hairpin turn below the peak.

Added: 2015-05-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.4
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: bwcasnap on 2012-07-10 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun

not overly challeging but fun spots here and there. worth the view.

Added: 2012-07-16

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jackson423 on 2011-07-17 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Rope Drag!

is a drag.

Added: 2012-04-16

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: AlpineGT on 2010-07-26 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars South Arete

First move seems to be the only 5.6 move. mixed class climbing and a few moves 5.5.

Added: 2011-06-14

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.4
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jnrose5 on 2009-07-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars w/ Andy

stormy day, but a late start saved us any dramas.

Added: 2009-07-28

... Read all 17 ascent notes