Routes : North America : United States : North Carolina : Western : Ship Rock : Ship Rock : The Anguish of Capt. Bligh
Previous
The Anguish of Capt. Bligh - 5.11b
Average Rating : 4.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (29)
Premier Sponsor:
|
Rock
offset aliens, medium nuts, medium cams (.5"-1.5"), brass and small wires helpful
|
|
||||||||||||||
Description:
Bouldery, balancy, reachy start with good micronuts leads to a fun arete.
Submitted by: forkliftdaddy on 2005-06-08
Views: 2208
Route ID: 45537
Most Recent Photos
|
|
|
29 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 29 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11c |
| Safety Rating | G |
Red Point ascent by:
no anguish, only joy today
First clean 11 on gear. Great route with tricky gymnastic movement between small if good stances for gear. Small stoppers (big brass work well) and yellow and green alien sizes do well to protect the start if you can avoid blocking your handholds. More small to mid-size above. Make sure to protect well as the business starts right off the deck and just nuts might zipper. Multiple thin and powerful moves, it's no gimme and not totally over when you turn the arete although you can get a good rest there.
Added: 2014-07-17
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11b |
| Safety Rating | G |
Anguish
Awesome climb. Take small nuts and mid size cams for top.
Added: 2014-07-11
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11b |
| Safety Rating | G |
Top Rope ascent by:
TR
Very nice variety of fun moves that aren't so obvious. Tricky and powerful in places with a fun finish. Watched someone climb this a while back and thought there wasn't much gear but upon closer inspection I see that is not so. Got a sequence and gear sorted now, so now it's on the lead list!
Added: 2013-07-05
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Didn't think I could do it, ever.
The feet were killing me, but this time I did (on TR, of course). With that win under my belt, it's time to move on to the gear. Looks like good gear where you need it, just have to figure out how to get it placed without blowing it.
Added: 2012-08-13
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
ground-up
short but aesthetic
nice sequences
takes gear pretty well, but cruxy near the ground
nice sequences
takes gear pretty well, but cruxy near the ground
Added: 2009-11-09
