Electric Boobs - 5.9

The heat made traction a bit of a problem and I had to concentrate more on finger holds in the crux sections but it was still fun. My second was finally able to conquer the lower mantle/jug pull. We decided to go with the second pitch variation and belay at pitch two of Grand Funk. There really wasn't that much difference and the length is nearly the same. We were also going to be climbing Grand Funk, so we made two rappels from here and started over. This is a little stiffer than the average 5.9 at Stone so keep that in mind when deciding to climb. All bolts, no gear.

I found a few of the moves to be tough the first time around but they seemed much easier this time. I missed a foot hold going into the first pitch belay on my previous attempt that made it go much smoother this time. I felt very comfortable leading all three pitches up to the Oasis. I plan on climbing this one a little more often.

...the route goes left at the first bolt. Going right might be doable, but I suspect it to be harder. If you're taller, going far enough left to work up to the nipple-hold is the best way. If you're shorter, you're probably going to have to go straight up just left of the bolt, which are more like 5.10 moves, but well protected. The psychological crux come getting to the second bolt. Easier moves, but now you're above the first bolt. Still need to lead the second pitch.

swapped leads on first 2 pitches with ross. good fun and relatively well protected for stone.

I was a little surprised with some of the moves on this route, they were a bit more difficult than those that I have encountered on most 5.9 routes at Stone or on a lot of the 5.10s for that matter. It was still a great climb though. I lead the three pitches to the Oasis and then we rapped back down. The route can be finished on the Pulpit or through a variation to Grand Funk Railroad. We chose not to do either since we have already climbed those routes in the past.

This route starts just to the left of Grand Funk Railroad on some really interesting rock. The first bolt is not that far off of the ground and I started almost directly beneath the bolt. After clipping the first bolt, move to the left under a bulge. There is a nice hold on top of the bulge that helps you mantle up on top of the bulge. I am 6' tall and was just barely able to grab the hold. I used both hands to pull myself up onto the shelf. My partner is a bit shorter and could not reach the hold without cheating a little. Follow the path of least resistance to the next two bolts, which are easily located. From the third bolt, head up to the left, just under the left side of the bowl that the belay anchors are located in. The moves up into the bowl are quite difficult and caution should be taken when locating the holds. I nearly slipped when positioning my right foot.

The second pitch goes up to the right, then back left to the first bolt on good rock. To get to the second bolt, a traverse must be made from the first bolt. I climbed up past the first bolt just a bit before making the traverse to the right. From the second bolt, head up and left to the belay anchors that are shared with Orange Blossom Special and finish on that route. I chose to head straight up the dark water groove above the belay to a really steep move into some nice jugs. From there to the Oasis was much easier climbing over big holds. I ran the third pitch out with no protection, however, for those who need additional pro there are ample opportunities for placements.