Routes : North America : United States : Colorado : Western Slope : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument : Otto's Route
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Otto's Route - 5.8 popular
Average Rating : 4.19 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (43)
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Rock
1.5-3.0 tricams, yellow-orange aliens, 3, 3.5, and 4 camalots(or equivalent).
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Description:
First ascended solo using pipes and chopped holds in 1911 to put an American flag on top on the 4th of July.On the north side of the tower, the climbers trail ends at an easy ramp leading to a dihedral below a big ledge. All belays have fixed anchors. Three single rope raps lead to the top of pitch 1, and one double rope rap from here leads to the ground. You can leave a rope on the big ledge on top of pitch 1.
Pitch 1 - 4th class ramp to the 5.4 dihedral. Ends at fixed anchors on the big ledge.
Pitch 2 - Easy climbing to the nasty looking overhanging offwidth. This is hard 5.8 and is well protected by a number 4 camalot. Bring a 5 camalot for the moves above this if you are uncomfortable with 5.6 offwidth.
Pitch 2.5 - A 40 foot 3rd class traverse through the "Time Tunnel" leads to the start of the next pitch. No anchors, but none needed as this is like being on the ground again.
Pitch 3 - Climb past 3 fixed pins to a fixed anchor, 5.6 You can put tricams and small aliens in pockets if you want.
Pitch 4 - The business. Climb easy(5.0) but runout chopped steps to where the tower steepens. 3 fixed pins in the overhanging but juggy caprock to the summit. Wild and exposed, traditionally 5.8 but becoming harder as the footholds crumble-now considered 5.9
Pitch 1 is 140', all other are short(50-70 feet). Classic climb, very unique and an impressive tower for the grade.
Submitted by: atg200 on 2002-05-08
Views: 4074
Route ID: 498
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43 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 43 ascent notes
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| Safety Rating | G |
Second ascent by:
very fun
Jugs though an offwidth roof. Cool. Lead P1. Thanks to all the locals who decided to give me crap about bringing more than a few draws up this thing... NOT.
Added: 2011-12-28
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| Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by:
Really fun, but...
... what a crowd! We got there at 10 AM and we had a dozen people above us already on the rock, and two parties in front of us, waiting to start! We waited an hour to start at the base before it was our turn, and then an hour on top before it was our turn to rap. Still - very fun (albeit bizarre) route - worth the wait.
Added: 2011-10-24
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
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First desert tower
A casual first tower experience. Topped out in an hour from the base. Had a few beers at the top. A fun evening after a morning of paragliding in Mack.
Added: 2011-05-25
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
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Climbed 10 years ago
Memories are a bit fuzzy, but I remember it was a great, moderate time
Added: 2011-03-23
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| Safety Rating | G |
utah trip
fun route behind 2 very slow parties
Added: 2009-06-11
