Routes : North America : United States : Montana : Rock Climbing : Butte : Humbug Spires : The Wedge : The Mutt and Jeff
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The Mutt and Jeff - 5.8 popular
Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 60
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (17)
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Rock
G
5
Standard rack to a #4 Camalot.
500
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Description:
Super classic 5-pitch route to the top of the Wedge. Starts on a prominent feature in the south face called the Butterknife. Pitches 4 and 5 can be combined with a 60 meter rope.
- Pitch 1 - 5.7 - Climb the butter knife into slabby terrain above. Clip the newer looking of two bolts, then move up and right to gain a crack. Follow this crack for about 20 feet until it is possible to traverse left. Traverse about 30 feet to gain another crack. Climb this for 20 feet to obvious belay stance.
- Pitch 2 - 5.7 - Continue up the left crack for about 100 feet. Belay just under the small overhang. Hanging Belay.
- Pitch 3 - 5.8 - Climb out and left around the overhang. Follow the very obvious left leaning crack to the base of poop infested crack. Set up Belay.
- Pitch 4 - 5.7 - Follow the poop crack and pop out on the north side of the wedge. Follow any number of easy lines to the base of a chimney. Chimney on up, and set up Belay.
- Pitch 5 - 5.4 - Continue up the easy slab (runout) to the top!
Descent Options:
From the top of the tower walk east along the ridge. Make a very exposed step onto a very thin ridge. Once you CAN NOT walk farther, rappel anchors will be there. A single 60 meter rope will just barely get you to a ledge with a tree. Some simple 5.2
Submitted by: alpinerockfiend on 2004-04-28
Last Modified: 2010-06-22
Views: 2647
Route ID: 51918
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17 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 17 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
great route!! Don't tell anyone
First. Its a stunning location & no one around. Beautiful 1.5h hike in on maintained trail (by chainsaw, of note, so why no powerdrills??).
First pitch traverse-couple of chicken heads & then fling left foot out to get the only decent hold, balance on that foot & shift over holding on to nothing. Wouldn't want to be short for that move.
Second pitch- not really a hanging belay. 2 bolts and decent ledge. Maybe this is new.
Third pitch, I went to the end of the diagonally rising off-width(fun) till it ended. To go to the rat infested area- I put in a piece high then step down to chock stone shaped like a short bridge or plank that spans a monster vertical channel/scoup thing, that I wouldn't describe as a crack (gear belay). I'm not confident I belayed from the right place & walking that chockstone was, I'm not gonna lie, scary! Pitch 4 is really fun & combines easily with pitch 5 to the top.
Note there is a second rap station 30' down from the first & with a 60 or 70m rope you can get to ground with 2 raps.
First pitch traverse-couple of chicken heads & then fling left foot out to get the only decent hold, balance on that foot & shift over holding on to nothing. Wouldn't want to be short for that move.
Second pitch- not really a hanging belay. 2 bolts and decent ledge. Maybe this is new.
Third pitch, I went to the end of the diagonally rising off-width(fun) till it ended. To go to the rat infested area- I put in a piece high then step down to chock stone shaped like a short bridge or plank that spans a monster vertical channel/scoup thing, that I wouldn't describe as a crack (gear belay). I'm not confident I belayed from the right place & walking that chockstone was, I'm not gonna lie, scary! Pitch 4 is really fun & combines easily with pitch 5 to the top.
Note there is a second rap station 30' down from the first & with a 60 or 70m rope you can get to ground with 2 raps.
Added: 2014-09-10
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Awesome
Really secure climbing all the way throughout and eats gear like a monster that eats gear that has a few run outs. Feet stick to everything.
Added: 2011-10-30
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
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Added: 2011-10-10
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Second ascent by:
Whoa
Super classic climb. Feet will stick to anything. The walk out to the rap anchors is pretty heady.
Added: 2011-09-05
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor |  |
9/11 day ascent
simple day of climbing upon the wedge...started on the butter knife and followed the obvious line up the slab...windy on top, but overall a solid afternoon climb, hope to be climbing the SW face next time around.
Added: 2011-02-14
