Routes : North America : United States : California : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse : Lost Horse Wall : The Swift
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The Swift - 5.7
Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 13
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (70)
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Rock (Trad)
3
Pro to 3.5", gear anchors
270
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Description:
Great three pitch climb, and can be done in two. Go up either of two short, left-veering cracks before traversing right to a 10' high chimney slot (be mindful of possible rope drag). Also possible to start up a short crack directly under that chimney slot. If done this straight-up way, can skip the first belay at the chimney slot; 190' from start to reach the first of two big horizontal blocks high up the long left-facing corner. If following the traditional second pitch by stepping right and around the slab arete and up, set the belay below the horizontal blocks, so that leader of the last pitch would get to place couple of pieces before turning the slab arete (no pro until reaching a high crack). Follow that upper crack system for about 80' to the top. Taking the last pitch straight up the left-facing corner all the way to the top makes for a 5.9 last pitch variation. Yet another 5.9 last pitch variation goes left up a ramp with a very thin undercling crack (runout until that seam widens to tips), then up a right-slanting finger crack to pull over a roof, then onto easy terrain to the top.Descent Options:
Walk off to climber's right down main gully.
Submitted by: baja_java on 2002-06-27
Last Modified: 2007-04-14
Views: 2605
Route ID: 6212
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70 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 70 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Second ascent by:
none
none
Added: 2014-04-04
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
With Mark Butler
Did this as 3 pitches with 60 due to rope drag on first pitch. Lots of places to place pro. Very popular route in the summer b/c of morning shade. Get on it early. Move right onto the arete on pitch 3. It is an airy but very protectable move. Go for it!
Added: 2013-04-28
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
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| Scenery | |
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Good Finish
The first two pitches are nothing to right home about but that last one is real fun. Felt a little tough coming around on that final flake in the tennies.
Added: 2011-03-25
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Fun route
Did the pitch on New years Eve, cold as hell. (low 40's at best). I led the first 2 pitches, partner led the last one.
Added: 2011-01-04
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Great climb
Did alternate finish, protected very well. Loved it. great view from the top.
Added: 2010-11-23
