Spanish Fly - 5.12c

This route could go as easy as 12a like Nosferatu said if you're tall enough to do the crux move fairly static. This route really only has 2 difficult moves on it, the first requires some power going to a 3 finger pocket but a nice heel/toe cam reduces the power needed and makes it possible to go to it static quite easily. The second hard move comes right after and is a long move to a good hold which I can see being easy for someone with a long reach. I'm 5'10" with a 5'8" wingspan and I had to jump to reach the hold. Even though it's a good hold it's easy to not hit it in a good spot and slide off. I probably did that move 10 times before I stuck it but once I did I climbed it to the top. Only about 11a after finishing that move. Needless to say your wingspan will determine how difficult this route is for you.

EDIT: Sent it again dry a few weeks ago and then again while wet for the 2013 Limestoner and it felt quite a bit harder when wet. Felt like a 12c when wet but quite soft when dry. Changing my opinion to 12b.

Long moves, but I'm 6'4" so the 12c part was most certainly not a crux for me.

Great route! Needs more ascents!

Awesome route.

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