Routes : North America : United States : California : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : Toe Jam

Toe Jam - 5.7 popular

Average Rating : 3.80 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 27
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (176)

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First Ascent:

Type of Climb:

Rock (Trad)

Safety Rating:

Pitches:

Protection:

Pro to 2.5", gear anchor

Length :

Consensus Ratings
Difficulty	5.7
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Description:

Popular route facing the lot and behind a campsite. Go straight up crack that soon slants to the right along undercling flake to just above the big black spot. Take the vertical branch of crack that goes straight up, which will peter out near the top to make for the final namesake crux. If you have to use the bolted rap station to set up an anchor, MAKE SURE YOU SET A DIRECTIONAL IN THE HORIZONTAL CRACK DIRECTLY ABOVE TOPOUT (BEWARE OF DEATH BELAY)!!! Best not to use the rap bolts to belay, but instead set a gear anchor at topout spot and belay directly above the vertical petered out crack, then afterward walk over to the bolted rap station to rap down. This will free up the rap station for use by other parties to descend.

Descent Options:

Walk to climber's right to obvious bolted belay station and rap down.

Submitted by: baja_java on 2005-04-18
Last Modified: 2007-02-20
Views: 3726
Route ID: 6587

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176 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
Difficulty	5.7
Safety Rating	G

Onsight ascent by: leoand23 on 2016-02-27 (View Climbing Log)

Nice short warmup route

Nice short little crux at the top of the route.

Added: 2016-03-01

Ratings
Difficulty
Safety Rating	G

Onsight ascent by: gblauer on 2013-11-19 (View Climbing Log)

My favorite 7 thus far

I loved this climb. Everything about it fit my style. It was a little technical and very very protectable. A great climb from right off the ground to the finish.

Added: 2013-11-19

Ratings
Difficulty	5.7
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: floridaputz on 2013-06-26 (View Climbing Log)

Toe Jam

sweet little route with a crux "toe Jam"

Added: 2013-07-02

Ratings
Difficulty	5.6
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Solo ascent by: williamkkelley on 2013-01-18 (View Climbing Log)

Rope Solo

Easy route with the crux and the beginning in a mini corner and at the top out where it gets slabby. The climb traverses a lot for such a short climb so bring some runners.
Gear used:
Camalot 3, 2, 2, 1, 0.75, 0.5
Metolius Master Cam 3, 1
BD #8 Nut
Metolius #10 Astro Nut
Anchor:
Camalot # 4, 1, .4

Added: 2013-01-21

Ratings
Difficulty	5.7
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: jasile on 2012-03-23 (View Climbing Log)

Great Route

One of the best things about JT, besides the variety of routes, has got to be the short approaches. What a great route right next to the camp ground.

Added: 2012-03-27

... Read all 176 ascent notes