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The Tourist Route - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Rock
Std Black Canyon Rack, doubles through #2 Camalot, 1-#3 and a set of wires.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure (Not Rated)
  Rock Quality (Not Rated)
  Scenery (Not Rated)
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)

Description:

Descend the Gully to nearly the river. Various options exist for getting on this large buttress on the skiers left of the gully. One option involves starting close to the river in a broken section of the buttress. Turn the top of the broken section on the left to avoid loose rock and follow your nose for a couple more pitches to a large ledge. From the ledge generally follow the right edge of the buttress above following weaknesses in faces, short offwidths and dihedrals. The final spectacular pitch steps onto the South Face to climb a bomb-bay dihedral to the top of the formation. Fourth class scrambling back and right puts you on the rim. 13-14 pitches of climbing should get you to the top. Belays were always good and pleasant. Loose rock is encountered, less the higher you go but still present. You can get away with climbing only 5.9, the way we did it, one pitch of .10a/b was encountered. *** route

Submitted by: cologman on 2005-04-29
Views: 832
Route ID: 66130

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
Onsight Onsight ascent by: tharlow on 2007-07-10 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars tourist route

nice route

Added: 2008-07-10

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: kcrag on 2005-04-23 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Nice route. Approach took :50 min. Climb took 10:30. 12 hours car to car. Bottom part of climb is really loose--like alpine mountaineering. Really fun upper pitches with good variety of features.

Witnessed by: cologman
Added: 2005-04-23

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: cologman on 2005-04-23 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Good Rte, do it!

Witnessed by: Kelly Baldwin
Added: 2005-04-23