Too Much Fun - 5.9

it's okay. blue chock is much better. you either have to climb the 5.6 flake without pro or break it up into two pitches.

Lost it on the crimpy crux moves and swung out right and could not get back to the crux. Need to come back and try again.

Did the flake start out left, traversed out right level with the bottom of the shallow corner, did crux and set a belay shortly after due to rope drag hell. Easy finish up and right. Two ropes would be the way to go for sure. We had to break it into 3 pitches to reach the rap station which was kind of a pain.

Easy well protected climbing until you wrap around onto the exposed face with the shallow corner and bolt. I had a 00 master cam at the base of the corner and a downward pull only RP that popped when I pulled rope at the belay or when I pulled up slack to clip the bolt, not sure which. Also kind of sucks for the 2nd since they will likely face a pendulum after unclipping the bolt unless you happen to have a very tiny cam for a thin horizontal above (something smaller than a 000/grey master cam - maybe a tiny C3?).

Getting to the bolt requires some very thin moves, that aren't extremely difficult but are not well protected. A fall before getting the bolt would be nasty and probably bounce you off the apron below and then result in a long tumble down if you didn't stop at the ledge (10' or so below). The moves up and traversing right after the bolt felt about similar difficulty to the moves reaching it so the bolt sort of interrupts a cruxy section rather than protects it exactly. Still, I was grateful it was there, I just wish there was one more very good piece to protect getting to it. Maybe I'll have better luck with another shape/size nut next time I try it. I still need to try to arching left corner finish - it looked intimidating but cool.

Finished straight up. Crux was enough for me w/o a rope.

pretty good for 5.9. the pro is fine for the grade, bring a micro and you can protect the (one) committing move to the bolt.