Routes : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Vancouver Island North : Nanaimo River : Lower Deck : Junkyard
PreviousJunkyard - 5.12a
Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 4
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Rock
2 Bolts
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Description:
From the undercut, pull on some amazingly large jugs to reach the horizontal crack under the roof and the first bolt. Heel hook and layback the rib above the roof (crux) to the second bolt. The finishing moves to the anchor are run-out.
Submitted by: ipsofacto on 2004-05-09
Views: 986
Route ID: 6838
3 Ascents Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11d |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor |  |
Red Point ascent by:
FUN!!!
Just plain cool. Lots of long reaches off soild jugs to a magnificent acrobatic display of heel hooking and gymnastic knee barring at the roof. Most photogenic. The finish was buried in lichen during my ascent, and there's not a great deal of pro lurking about. Maybe it was to be found under the moss. A not-to-be missed climb.
Added: 2007-08-31
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| Difficulty | |
Ascent Note
Easy for the grade, and a real one move wonder. If you can find the knee-bar, and get into it quickly enough at the roof, this one will be a cake walk. 11+
Witnessed by: Gord Smail
Added: 2003-07-09
Added: 2003-07-09
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| Difficulty | |
Ascent Note
Great route but really short. Took me a while to figure out the crux but unlike the photo of this route I used a heel hook and lay-back which requires less work. This was on a top-rope and I have yet to return and lead it.
Added: 1996-07-20
