Coire Dubh - WI2

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Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Ice
5-6 Ice Screws, length of sling to possibly leave on descent
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Description:
ICE: F.A. Bugs McKeith (Solo) December 1973 310m Grade 3 ---------------------------------- Approach as for Goat Slabs. Park in the lot on the south side of the 1A highway directly across from the landfill. Walk up the landfill access road staying right until reaching crossable (log) section of fence. Obvious trail follows fence north, then west before curving towards Goat Mountain.-------------- Follow 100m of easy angled snow and ice to a 30m icefall with ice reaching 80° Snow and ice slopes above lead into the Narrows and a further 60m or easy ice. The climb finishes up with a 15m wall into the base of the cirque. There are (2) manky anchors in boulders found at the top of the main ice-fall. I wouldn't recommend using these 30+ year old rusted 1/4" bolts. The boulder on the right has been slung numerous times and makes a decent rap anchor.-------- Descent is via the route. *note* A single rope will not reach from the trees above the main ice fall, use boulder and slings on the right, rap and descend another 10 - 20m then cross easy snow/ice to spotty trail. Descend scree to rejoin landfill trail.
Submitted by: skinner on 2006-01-09
Views: 1583
Route ID: 73116
3 Ascents Recorded
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Was wet and squishy, but a still fun.
Added: 2006-01-06
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No comment
Added: 2004-11-10
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Integrale in heavy winter nick.
Added: 2003-05-01