Blue Chock - 5.10b

Did as one pitch. Very easy for the first half or so up through the flake start (easier than it looks I thought) then it starts to get progressively thinner as you move up through a series of left trending flakes. These culminate in a bit of 5.9ish thinness taking you to the crux pocket/undercling where the crack sort of crosses through a small X with the pocket being in the middle. Anyway, finagle small gear into slots as best you can without blocking crucial handholds and puzzle out the crux sequence. Make sure the pro is good because it's the best gear you'll get for a little while. Bust the move and land on a low angle apron and plug the tiniest cam (000 master cam for me) you have and/or a micronut to protect the thin traverse. This is tricky but be sure to look for some holds on the bulge above although nothing is all that hot until the end. Either pull the bulge roof as soon as you reach a very good hold as I did, or continue over to the corner (partner said this was plausible). I was short the one piece that *might* have protected the roof pull in a marginal horizontal (yellow or orange master cam?) so my pro was the thin gear at the start of the traverse. Wasn't thrilled about that but thankfully if you keep looking decent crimp shelves are there to be worked with, although they aren't fantastic until you are nearly done with the move. This puts you into the overhanging dark corner, which can be dispatched with some stemming up until the end where an awkward topout awaits.

Good climbing all around, although a decent piece of gear near/at the end of the traverse would make it safer. Be careful with rope drag at the start and take a good number of runners, it's a long pitch and you don't want to fight the rope at the end.

...one pitch. run it out and/or sling it long up the first 25 ft or so. Protects well through the crux, but gets sparse after that with some runout traversing and 5.9 climbing. Some choss near the end while pulling onto the Washboard ledge.

Did this as two pitches. Very enjoyable. Crux is both a bit burly and a bit tricky.

And spank your butt with its hand!

long crux section, but very well protected with a pink tricam, a small micro cam, and a BD .3 for the business.