Routes : North America : United States : California : Western Sierra : Kernville Slab : Kernville Rock aka Kernville S : lieback (Immaculate White Book)
lieback (Immaculate White Book) - 5.5
Average Rating : 4.75 out of 5Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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trad rack: small to big
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Description:
One of the best easy trad routes you'll ever do. Right of center. Take a rather ordinary corner up to an anchor. Then traverse right over into the immaculate white book (good name, huh?). Follow it up an amazing crack. Placements galore. When you reach the book's end, swing over to the right and belay. Then finish left by traversing the mini-roof (undercling) and up the slab.
Submitted by: tslater on 2006-03-02
Views: 2287
Route ID: 74792
Most Recent Photos (See all 17 photos)
4 Ascents Recorded
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Difficulty | 5.6 |
Safety Rating | G |
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Second ascent by: kalen666 on 2012-12-30
(View Climbing Log)
NICE
Killer Climb, the crux was easy to pull but the scare factor of leading it makes it seem way harder.
Added: 2012-12-30
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.5 |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: sclaussen on 2009-05-23
(View Climbing Log)
Immaculate White Book Ascent
I just lead this route over the weekend and I thought it was a great route. However, I am a new leader and I did think that 5.5 was a little bit of a sandbagged rating - it's harder than that - so beware if you're a new leader. I made it fine, but it was challenging. I found that it took a lot of smaller (< BD#1) protection - and the anchor takes smaller protection as well - so rack accordingly. There are no bolts at the first belay station and it only supports two people at a time. The first pitch crux is 75% of the way through the pitch where the lieback crack disappears for 3 to 5 feet. I followed on the second pitch - it has a similar crux - that's more difficult than the first crux - where the lieback crack disappears for 5 feet or so. On the 2nd pitch we went straight up then left on the undercling and then up a crack to top out. One of my climbing partners who lead the 2nd pitch felt it was more difficult than pitch 2 - particularly placing pro while traversing the undercling. We were told we could walk off the right side - but it looked like dicey class 4 - so we decided to rappel. There are two relatively new rappel bolts/chains at the top of pitch 2 that get you down to another couple bolts/chains near the top of pitch 1. The granite quality here is excellent.
Added: 2009-05-27
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Difficulty | 5.6 |
Safety Rating | G |
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Second ascent by: kernvilleclimber on 2008-03-20
(View Climbing Log)
Great climb
Can't wait to learn to place gear so I can lead this myself. I thought it was a bit more difficult than 5.5 though.
Added: 2008-10-20
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.5 |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
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Solo ascent by: Kernclimber on 2008-04-21
(View Climbing Log)
Lieback
Nice route. Climbed it solo(self belay), trad, single pitch. Best to rappel on the far left to avoid rope getting caught.
Added: 2008-04-23