Routes : North America : United States : Texas : South Central Texas : Barton Creek Greenbelt : Gus Fruh left (Fern Bar Area) : Iranian Arms Deal
Iranian Arms Deal - 5.10d

Route sequence (left to right): 5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (18)
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Keith Guillory, David Renburg
Rock
G
5 bolts to anchors.
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Description:
Climb past 2d bolt and moves left. One of the more popular routes on this section.Texas Limestone lists the rating as 5.8, and TexasClimbers lists it as 5.10. I've changed the rating to 5.10, since I don't see how to do the start at all, especially as a 5.8. I've added a photo that shows it's "a little thin". If anyone has the beta on the start, please post it! Edited by Austinclmbr 5/9/06...possible two moves to start, one is a right hand side pull to mantle the ledge, if reach is issue, try left hand gaston to mantle. Both are 5.10 to learn, but 5.8 once you have the beta down.
Submitted by: austinclmbr on 2006-05-09
Last Modified: 2014-02-14
Views: 2044
Route ID: 7653
18 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 18 ascent notes
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10b |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
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Balance
This route has similar moves as the start of Fern Bar, but more fun. The whole route is much more enjoyable than fern bar.
Added: 2012-01-17
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10b |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
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Tough start
But no way it's a 10d like it's listed in the "Austin Rock" guidebook. Especially if you wanna call Birdland a 10d, the difference between those routes is like night and day.
Added: 2011-04-08
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10c |
Safety Rating | G |
hmm
maybe i'm missing something, but i don't see a way that's any easier than about 10c at the start...
Added: 2009-05-21
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10b |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
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very thin move over 1st bolt
difficult first moves and balanced top out
2009/02/25 - finally returned and nailed the start on this. i gaston the upper hold left-handed and keep the right on the small grimp down low, raise up the right foot to a rail out right and then reach right handed for the shelf.
2009/02/25 - finally returned and nailed the start on this. i gaston the upper hold left-handed and keep the right on the small grimp down low, raise up the right foot to a rail out right and then reach right handed for the shelf.
Added: 2008-10-10
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10b |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
5.8D if you do the direct start
Deadpoint to a poor gaston for the first move - the rest is easy climbing on buckets. Set a toprope and let any beginners climb the crack to the left and finish fromt the big ledge
Added: 2008-02-27