Routes : North America : United States : California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Five Open Books : Five Open Books : The Surprise
Previous
The Surprise - 5.10c
Average Rating : 4.25 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (10)
Premier Sponsor:
|
Rock
standard rack
|
|
||||||||||||||
Description:
~4 pitch climb to the right of Commitment. P1(.10c): climb a .10a lieback, heading left and up past a bolt (crux of climb). P2 (.8): climb the double hand cracks. P3 (.10a): climb the short but sweet finger crack. P4 (.7): easy last pitch. The first pitch (Werners Ant Trees) is a variation to the original route, but done this way the route is absolutely stellar.
Submitted by: wyoclimber3 on 2006-06-03
Views: 1582
Route ID: 77141
10 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 10 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
and the surprise is...
no more bolt at the crux! woooo hooooo! insanely fun climb, i thought the mental crux was the first pitch but the technical crux was the end segment of the second pitch (if you link 2 and 3 which you should because it will avoid a hanging belay).
Added: 2013-05-16
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor |  |
dangerous first pitch, but solid if u are solid
p.1 starts 10a to a 10c finish under this flake for the belay
if u come off at the top of the 10c portion u will take a grounder and be hurt bad, like the earlier posts said no more bolt. climb baby climb
p.2 is loose and long, good protection
p.3 is sustained and not for the faint at heart
get good feet and stay with it, good pro too
p.4 is nice lots of loose stuff at the top, be careful
i led p. 1-3 on-site
today i am soar
if u come off at the top of the 10c portion u will take a grounder and be hurt bad, like the earlier posts said no more bolt. climb baby climb
p.2 is loose and long, good protection
p.3 is sustained and not for the faint at heart
get good feet and stay with it, good pro too
p.4 is nice lots of loose stuff at the top, be careful
i led p. 1-3 on-site
today i am soar
Added: 2010-10-10
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10c |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
better than i expected
This was nice and uncrowded since it's a little tougher climb in an easier area. The first crux is slightly heady with a chopped bolt now. The splitter finger pitch is freakin' sweet though.
Added: 2010-07-25
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Second ascent by:
great!
do the 10c direct variation! be aware there is no bolt for the pitch 1 crux... use tiny cams and nuts to protect
Added: 2010-06-07
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
It was a surprise...
despite some dirt, the pro is good and the finger crack at the top is stellar.
Added: 2010-05-09
