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Devil's Tongue - 5.12a
Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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Description:
(5.12a / 3 pitches / 300ft) Climb the first route on the Club Mex Wall. This route climbs to the lower of the two prominent stacked dihedrals, or hash marks on the South Face. P1 (5.12a / 115ft / fixed belay) Climb technical black rock to a flake system that waves and narrows to a point reminiscent of a demonic tongue. The crux is gaining the tongue flake. When standing on the tip of the tongue, puzzle out where to pull the roof above (2nd crux) and pull to the belay. P2 (5.11d / 100ft / fixed belay) Climb the twin tufas. Strange, somewhat off-balance face climbing leads to the base of twin tufas. Leverage both tufas and pull to an awkward stance at the base of the columnar slanting dihedral. P3 (5.9 / 80ft / shares 3rd pitch belay with Thunderkiss) Climb the cool slanting plank. Future plans are in the works to push the route to the summit. (FA: Jimmy Ray Forester, Dane Bass, Rick Ross, Scott Hamilton)
Submitted by: jimmyray on 2006-08-17
Views: 1438
Route ID: 79031
Most Recent Photo
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4 Ascents Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.12a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
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| Scenery |  |
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Onsight ascent by:
good route
A great route with three distinct cruxes. First, thin face, second, pulling a roof. Third, a transfer on somewhat grotty tufas. The route stops on the 11 D pitch of thunder kiss.
Added: 2011-12-24
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.12a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Hang Dog ascent by:
Good tongueing
This was my FAVOURITE route in Potrero! freakin awesome!!! Crimpy at the start, and very sequency and technical climbing up to the tongue. I ALMOST had an onsight, but I wasn't sure if I was to go left or right at the last bolt on the dihedral...I went the wrong direction and fell...when I pulled myself back up to the bolt, I saw a tick mark I originally missed, and then flashed the last section...what a piss off. lol, The second pitch (11d) is also spectacular. I didn't get to do the third pitch unfortunately.
Added: 2009-03-07
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.12a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Red Point ascent by:
stealler!
actually got this last year but i wasnt really logging then so i went back and got it again cause its just so dang good!
Added: 2007-12-11
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Ascent Note
No comment
Added: 2006-10-31
