Routes : North America : United States : North Carolina : Central : Pilot Mountain : Amphitheater : When Shrimp Learn to Whistle
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When Shrimp Learn to Whistle - 5.11a
Average Rating : 3.73 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 53
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (11)
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Rock (Sport)
G
4 bolts to mid-route shuts at ledge, where second can set a higher belay; five more bolts to new rings above the roof. Do re-clip for second: dangerous swing from top rings.
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Description:
Starts left of Single Handed Sailor on the right side of the Amphitheater. Follow the difficult face along the sharp arete. Head left toward next arete for two bolts across overhangs to big roof and finish in V notch.Descent Options:
Three Bears Gully
Submitted by: cha on 2007-12-25
Last Modified: 2011-02-16
Views: 2436
Route ID: 84352
11 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 11 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Top Rope ascent by:
ugh that crux
Had trouble figuring out what to do at the crux. Once I figured out the right beta for me, pulled the crux without a problem.
Added: 2011-11-29
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11b |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
tough roof
got to the first anchors and a little past but couldn't get past the roofs.. easy up to the roofs but at the top it has some tough moves. definitely want to try it again
Added: 2010-10-08
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11b |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Red Point ascent by:
11b in the book,
Probably 11c when compared to the rest of the country. Great climb that most only do the first half of.
Added: 2009-10-05
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Tough crux
Arete is fun. The crux--pulling a small roof with a tiny left undercling and tiny right crimp--threw me every time.
Added: 2009-03-16
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
a couple hard moves
I've been on this a couple times and haven't done it cleanly yet, although I've only been to the first set of anchors. The move up the arete via the crimpers is pretty darn hard. Actually, there are two hard moves then you are through the hard bits, at least for this part of the climb. Looking forward to working through it and then trying the roof section. Relatively easy for the rest of the climb, but the crux is harder than others of this grade at Pilot I think.
Added: 2009-01-04
