Routes : North America : United States : California : Lake Tahoe : Lovers Leap : Lower Buttress : surrealistic pillar direct
surrealistic pillar direct - 5.10b

Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (40)
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nuts/cams 3/8" to #4 camalot
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Description:
Steeper start to surrealistic pillar. start in the wide crack dihedral, move right into a finger crack for 20 feet, then join the regular route. this route is highly suggested.
Submitted by: salamanizer on 2006-01-08
Views: 2556
Route ID: 8739
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40 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 40 ascent notes
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10b |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
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Fun Factor | ![]() |
Surrealistic indeed
I red point after only my second attempt. What a great P1 this was. I used 4 pieces on the wide crack with double length runners to have the rope go straight up with zero drag. The roof protects really well and once you trust your jams it's all over if you get your feet on the knob. Rest some and a few moves later it will be in the bag. It feels true to the rating.
Added: 2014-08-04
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10c |
Safety Rating | G |
direct
takes great gear, sometimes it's a little far back in the crack. felt pretty hard for 10b. I'll say 10c. ran out the last piece and opted for the more direct line going straight for the anchor on dikes.
Added: 2011-09-12
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Difficulty | |
Safety Rating | G |
1 fall...so close to the redpoint...gack!
Decided to jump on this after over a year and try leading it. On top of the roof and 1 move away from getting my foot on the right big knob (i.e. the rest of all rests!), my hand slipped out of the crack and I fellllllllllllllllll...........
Added: 2010-09-20
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Difficulty | |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
fun
interesting moves
Added: 2010-08-13
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Difficulty | |
Safety Rating | G |
Cool
Excellent first pitch (to chains). Finishes with cool dike hike.
Added: 2010-07-03