Routes : North America : United States : Texas : South Central Texas : Monster Rock : Horror Movie Wall : Lord of the Pit
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Lord of the Pit - 5.11b
Average Rating : 4.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Greg Brooks
Rock (Sport)
G
1
10 fixed biners on chains; all you need is a 35 meter rope or longer. DO NOT SECOND (FOLLOW) THIS ROUTE! ONLY LEAD IT. Bolts are placed only with lead falls (swinging left) only, not seconding falls (swinging right).
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Description:
An awesome traverse into and through most of the Pitfiend Pit on its overhung Horror Movie Wall. Starts outside the pit, sitting on a half-coffin sized boulder "guarding" the pit entrance. Reach right to clip the 1st biner, then off you go. Belayer can stand on the thin ledge below the 1st bolt and be ready to bump the leader away from the half-coffin sized boulder should he fall early. Traverse right, clipping all the fixed biners on chains, exiting up on Freddie vs. Jason. Greg Brooks FA. Greg climbs with the Zen calm and pace of a pre-global-warming glacier that would pump-out mere mortals, and I figured this would cost him on this long route...but no.Descent Options:
after clipping the super-shuts of Freddie vs. Jason, lower.
Submitted by: Hogge on 2008-04-28
Last Modified: 2011-09-20
Views: 1171
Route ID: 90867
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3 Ascents Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Red Point ascent by:
Sent at Last!
Never worked this more than one weekend at a time, with months/year between tries. Wasn't expecting to send it! Hard 11a or easy 11b but that's if you know all the holds. Head game route through the last crux.
Added: 2014-02-15
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
much long than Spider Grind...
difficulty is similar but without the slippery holds that Spider has and there really isn't any reason to heel hook that I could find.
Got this on the second try. It did take some determination, that is for certain.
Got this on the second try. It did take some determination, that is for certain.
Added: 2011-09-20
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11b |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Hang Dog ascent by:
traverse through a rock canyon wonderland
Unique setting: this traverse takes you through most of the narrow canyon (the Pitfiend Pit) between two climbable cliffs.
Back in '08, four strong types agreed on Greg's 5.10d grade. But this is clearly harder than Spider Grind, even with the rest.
Back in '08, four strong types agreed on Greg's 5.10d grade. But this is clearly harder than Spider Grind, even with the rest.
Added: 2008-03-21
