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Osiris - 5.7

Average Rating = 3.40/5 Average Rating : 3.40 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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Rock (Trad)
G
5
A single set of cams through BD #3 and two sets of nuts.
600
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.67/5
  Rock Quality 4.33/5
  Scenery 4.67/5
  Fun Factor 3.33/5

Description:

A wonderful route to some, a giant pile of crap to others. Nevertheless, considered a classic for the area. Definitely stout for the grade and you will be crying if you aren't good at the wide stuff. Located on the Book, left of the dihedral that splits the Pages from the wall on which Pear Buttress is and immediately left of George's Tree (the flaring splitter with tree halfway up), the first pitch constitutes ~130' of wide crack climbing and is easily identifiable by the squeeze chimney about 30' up. P1 (one of the harder 5.6's you will do) ends atop a pillar. Folks with 70 m ropes can continue upward, following one of the cracks to the left of the pillar, to a large ledge by a tree below a large right facing dihedral (5.8). This is the belay for the third pitch. Those without longer ropes or those wishing to bypass these flaring cracks for some decidely easier climbing will belay atop the pillar. P2 will then follow a ramp that begins on the right side of the pillar, and end atop the ledge mentioned above (5.5). P3 is what you came for. Follow the dihedral for ~120' before encountering a bulge split by two hand cracks (crux, 5.7). Pick one and continue onto the nice ledge above (~200' total). If you took the crack all the way to the ledge, you will have to move the belay over to the large leaning block (the Fang). For P4, get on the Fang and take the wide crack directly above it for a short pitch of 5.7. End below the head-wall and belay near the tree. P5 begins by taking the easy ground northwest around the head wall (5.2). Belay at the top of the Pages amongst the fins.

Descent Options:

Walk off to the east and descend via the gulley to the east of the Book.

Submitted by: oldguy53 on 2008-07-10
Views: 1575
Route ID: 91228

Most Recent Photo

5 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: satch on 2014-08-08 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Loved it!

Spot on route description in RC.com. 1st pitch is a wrestling match to stay on the lips of the chimney, yet still find pro. We used offset cams and a #4 Camelot several times on the route. 3rd pitch is probably the most fun and 60 meters long, although standing on top of the fang in a high wind is stimulating. Decent takes some time - it's over and right. Very few cairns to mark it.

Added: 2014-08-09

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jmeizis on 2011-06-17 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Blech

I found this route rather unpleasant and boring. Just thrutching and grunting my way up a wide crack with the occasional hold.

Added: 2011-06-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: 3cclimber on 2009-08-05 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars 5.7+

bring bag of tricks, walk off on east side.

Added: 2009-08-24

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stamplis on 2008-06-26 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars _

Fair bit of awkwardness on that 1st pitch but good climbing. The rest of the climb was somewhat forgettable to me.

Added: 2008-08-21

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: oldguy53 on 1998-07-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars fun

5.7 3 stars

Added: 2007-12-07