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Battlement Middle - 5.12a

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock (Toprope)
G
1
25
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

Along the front (roadside-facing) wall of the main Eden park climbing wall there are two, tall battlements/towers. Each battlement has three faces: left, front, and right. This line follows strictly the fron face of this tower. It's lined with small, polished crimpers from bottom to top for sustained 5.12 climbing. Most of the locals bouler/free solo these lines - but setting up a toprope is easy and a good idea.

Submitted by: matthelj on 2009-03-11
Views: 1306
Route ID: 98171

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1 Ascent Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: matthelj on 2009-04-01 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Hard

This is a tough climb. The hardest part is merely figuring and feeling out the specific sequence. The feet are small, hard to see, and polished. The hands start out as small crimpers and get smaller as you move up, also very difficult to see. Once the sequence is together, the redpoint isn't too difficult, but definitely hard on the finger tips. She's a shredder.

I'm not sure if it's a 5.12, but it's definitely a really hard 5.11.

Added: 2009-03-30