alpenweg's Logbook (122 ascents)

on-site everything up to 10d
on yeah i took a fall on the half dollar on second and
we did c1 on the 11b slab and the 11a roof

the climbing was amazing and exposed at some times

wow what a blessing

so i call it a hang dog but did some good work too
heres how it went

p1 and 2 linked on-site
p3 french free
p4 on site
p5 on site the 10 d butt crack, and french free the slab
p6 frech free
p7 on site
p8 half dollar on site, i took a fall on second
p9 and 10 linked and on site

want to do it again

one of the harder routes i have done here in the valley
i was glad i brought a number 5 for the upper few pitches

loose rock and run outs, way above the last pitches
make sure u are versed on wide flaring stuff

lots of roofs and unorthodox body positioning

lots of slings are needed, double length 7 and single 5
minimum amount to bring

make sure that each person has a small pack
no big ones for this thing

we used a tag line to haul the packs up

make sure u bring a head lamp
i led the last chimney in the dark

i give it a pg13 and a R rating, not 5.9 but a 5.10
this route is not fun rather dangerous and burrrliiiiiieeeee

i did the belay duty all three pitches

after the rains it was so loose, stuff was being knocked down on us way to much when we were at the base

p.1 starts 10a to a 10c finish under this flake for the belay
if u come off at the top of the 10c portion u will take a grounder and be hurt bad, like the earlier posts said no more bolt. climb baby climb
p.2 is loose and long, good protection
p.3 is sustained and not for the faint at heart
get good feet and stay with it, good pro too
p.4 is nice lots of loose stuff at the top, be careful

i led p. 1-3 on-site

today i am soar

no need to run it out on the bottom
control and poise will allow one to get gear in to prevent a grounder, after that choose the gear and place it well

the climbing widens till all the large cams are used
hopping the cams and staying clam were the ingredient for
a good solid climb

not at one point did i feel out of my element
like the wide stuff

the anchors will allow for a top rope on ahab

not a fun climb wide and bulldogish

free solo

shit make sure u do the right route

i wore a harness and plugged a nr. .75 under the roof and clipped a sling to it for the move but did not pull on it

so i guess it is almost a free solo

did it though

it cleansed my soul

blessings

i have not climbed that high before
12000 ft. is no joke
long walk in for me
would suggest being used to altitude

the approach was easy to find, but very long

p.1 was mine run out and loose at the top when u need to go right p.2 was run out at the top traverse because of no gear left on the rack that would fit. and i hung on the rope while cleaning the gear, so it is a hand dog! p.3 & 4 i linked but on the chimney made a mistake and went to long and deep and climbed out the end. go short and then get out so the gut that is larger can make it through.

i was to long on the approach and had made some mistakes early on, the time was late in the day and we called it at the
belay of p. nr. 5

a 60 m 4 raps to the ground will do the trick

left 30 $ worth of gear and were safe

the walk out was long for me being i was mild heat stroked and
had a headache

the water is clean to drink u[ there on the way before and after you see the face of mountain

i would love to go there again
with more time up high
and leaving at 500 am in the morning

would not call this a hang dog
but a spanking
i did good on the climbing but bad on the
planning and, etc

this is a serious undertaking
which needs respect
some of the others doing this route are
great climbers used to such things
this was my first alpine experience in the high sierras

blessings

run out serious climbing
not for the faint at heart

loose be careful at the top of p. 1

p. 3 will show it's teeth

have good solid wide skills

this climb was not my idea of fun
more like scary and serious

fun is having a day in the garden
at least that is my opinion

climbed her in mountain boots

eats gear and a nice section to finish it off
watch for rocks topping out

bring lots of slings

nice

long day

i got lost on a pitch and left a piece

climbed with a partner who would remove his shoes on every pitch

would love to do her again in a more fluid style

i hung on the crux

fun factor, what a subjective question

i consider climbing serious and dangerous
fun is for me watching a video or having sex

climbing is fun after the evening bath

ernest