Routes : Reviews
bmck's Logbook (16 ascents)
Climbing Log | Hit List (1)
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Routes: North America: United States: Kentucky: East: Red River Gorge (Climbing): The Boneyard
Cindarella
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10b |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Top Rope ascent by:
Ugh
BRUTAL start in anything less than perfect weather--nobody in my party was able to get off the ground. Once mobile naturals got you past the start the climbing was nice on classic RRG shelves up to a second crux with thin, oddly-placed holds to the fourth bolt.
Overall I'd say at least 10a/b, unless I was missing something, and the consensus was that the start was at least V4. Definitely a downer of a route--spend the whole time going "when did I get too fat and weak to climb 5.9??"
Overall I'd say at least 10a/b, unless I was missing something, and the consensus was that the start was at least V4. Definitely a downer of a route--spend the whole time going "when did I get too fat and weak to climb 5.9??"
Added: 2013-09-03
Routes: North America: United States: Kentucky: East: Red River Gorge (Climbing): The Boneyard
Abbey Dabby Doo
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Classic Red start
The start is the entire route. The first bolt is clippable from standing by a 5'6" climber, but you could end up wanting it, as when you inevitably pop off the start it'd be easy to go over about an eight foot drop into some bushes. Once you get to the hands near the second bolt, you're home free. Anchors are over a comically massive ledge--makes TRing this kind of a pain, actually.
Best thing about this route is that it's next to some really comfy ledges--makes a great lunch spot.
Best thing about this route is that it's next to some really comfy ledges--makes a great lunch spot.
Added: 2013-09-03
Routes: North America: United States: Kentucky: East: Red River Gorge (Climbing): Chica Bonita
Pocahontas Path
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Flash ascent by:
Trickier than I expected
Another great practice route for a new leader. Easy to end up too far left and get into sparser holds territory--keep right along the corner the whole way until the step to the chains and you'll be fine. Stem out across the chimney if you want; it's probably not necessary, but I did 'cuz I'm a gumby.
Fun route--quite a few different ways to approach it; for being as short as it is it requires a surprising amount of thought.
Fun route--quite a few different ways to approach it; for being as short as it is it requires a surprising amount of thought.
Added: 2013-09-03
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Trickier than I expected
Another great practice route for a new leader. Easy to end up too far left and get into sparser holds territory--keep right along the corner the whole way until the step to the chains and you'll be fine. Stem out across the chimney if you want; it's probably not necessary, but I did 'cuz I'm a gumby.
Fun route--quite a few different ways to approach it; for being as short as it is it requires a surprising amount of thought.
Fun route--quite a few different ways to approach it; for being as short as it is it requires a surprising amount of thought.
Added: 2013-09-03
Routes: North America: United States: Kentucky: East: Red River Gorge (Climbing): Chica Bonita
Mary Pop-Parazzi
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.6 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Nice confidence-builder for a new leader
I happen to be one, so this was good. The hardest part by far is the beginning, with a couple moves on crimpy slab; beyond that is bomber holds over a few quick moves to the chains. I had a slightly tough time clipping the anchors--the hands are there, but they're tricky enough that setting slings with locking 'biners was a bit spooky. I'd recommend using quickdraws for your anchor if this is your first lead.
Added: 2013-09-03
Routes: North America: United States: Oregon: Smith Rock: 12. The Red Wall Area: Red Wall
Moscow ***
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Second ascent by:
Smith classic
Some true classic easy multi-pitch climbing. Incredible views all the way up, and enough air between your legs to make you remember what you're up to. Fantastic climb--highly recommended for first-timers. One tricky (for the grade) bulge on the second pitch.
Added: 2013-04-15
Routes: North America: United States: Oregon: Smith Rock: 12. The Red Wall Area: Red Wall
Super Slab
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.6 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
First multi-pitch climb
Followed my dad, a Smith regular (way) back in the day, on this and Moscow. Great, great trip.
Added: 2013-04-15
Routes: North America: United States: Kentucky: East: Red River Gorge (Climbing): The Great Wall
Ledgends of Lemonite (Normal Start)
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
nice, awkward start
A little weird with the traverse at the start, but after that I think this makes a way better warmup than Glory & Consequence, despite the "harder" rating. Helped me recover my confidence after getting beaten down by a 5.7 =\
Added: 2013-04-08
Routes: North America: United States: Kentucky: East: Red River Gorge (Climbing): The Great Wall
Glory and Consequence
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
all there, but tricky
The start is a tricky boulder problem--flailed on it for a while and then had a hard time with the rest of the route. If you had it wired this would be an easy route but it's tough to see what's going to be good and what's not. Despite the rating, I'd warm up on the 5.8 next door rather than this one.
Added: 2013-04-08
Routes: North America: United States: Kentucky: East: Red River Gorge (Climbing): Volunteer Wall
Swap Meet
Average Rating : 0.00/5
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
nice, trickier than I expected
A little thin on the first move for a 5.6, and the final moves aren't as obvious as I'd expect for the grade. Might be a 5.7. Still a great route for beginners.
Added: 2013-04-08
