dowww's Logbook (600 ascents)

Led for the third time today. Definitely one of my favorite single pitch 5.10 trad climbs in Red Rock. Gear wise, just a single from .75 to #3. Counting off-sets, I used triple .3 and .4's I think. Bumped the red BD micro cam once, and placed a BD yellow micro. No wires. Rap wise, I have been doing a single bolt rap on Mai Tai as the nest rap that gets you down the left side of the corner via 2 raps is rotten.

Becoming one of my favorite 5.10a's in the park. Love the thoughtful sequence up to the roof. You can lay back this (when I guide it, it is what folks do on top rope). To lead it, keep yourself balanced and approach it as a stem problem Out right is is a small rail for your right foot. Great stuff. A reachy finger edge in the middle of the lower section is key when you run out of other options and finishes the crux.

Crux is low, then the pitch backs way off. I consider this lead delicate pro off the deck. The crux moves are intricate smears. Was not overly impressed with the route, not near as good as other 2, 3 and 4 star 5.10's in Miramontes guide.

This is 5.9 in the book and I concur (not 5.10). Fun short crack. Jams and stemming reach a junction. Jam the left enough to stem back right and pull a jug to the top above the closed corner section. Can set a gear top rope for others to the right with a #3 and #4.

Good trad route by City standards. Good fingers and sloping feet get you past the first few crux meters to jams and easier climbing. .2, .3, .4 and .5 does the trick with a few larger pieces on the easier ground. You can sling a feature up left to set up a top rope for others and there is a fixed rap traversing right a few meters as well.

On Site solo with the Urioste clan cheering me on...we had a short window one particularly 100F day and Danny knows I like the wide...very comfortable solo, left chicken wing will take you 3/4's of the way.

The second pitch of the Big Corner is one of the finer pitches at the grade near Sedona. The first pitch is not all as bad as folks make it out. I have seen much worse. Leading the 2nd pitch, I placed one of just about everything from Metolius 0 to a C4#4. The only doubles I recommend are the C4#.4 and the Metolius 0 equivalents. I placed no wires myself. It was a plug and go kind of route. For me the off width was no worries and the crux would be the tips finish. But like has been mentioned elsewhere, the key is face climbing out right for a meter or two at the very top and stemming off of the corner. Good stuff indeed.

A single pitch that is easy to add to a days worth of climbing at Dry Creek Spires, and worthy. Climb the bolts with the crux move coming right before a huge handle that mantles you up and into the fun crack above. The face climbing is much more technical than the crack climbing. Stem up the crack and either jam or layback the large flake and exit up and right to the tree. The single rope rap is just down and left from the tree.

I consider this the hardest 5.10 I have climbed at Jtree to date. Miramonte’s guide discusses a “bouldery and run out start” which is obviously the crux of the climb. A crash pad would be handy on this one. There are a couple of horizontal placements including a C4#2 down low that semi protects the 2nd and 3rd moves. Once in the crack above, it is strenuous, but enjoyable hands and fingers to the roof. The FA version goes right which is sort of a sliding chimney deal. Best to bring the 2nd up on this one and scramble down climbers left.

If you like off-width, Championship, despite how short it is, is a must do at Jtree where there are few to be had. The crux is at the start (fist jamming) to work your way into the crack. From there it is all gravy via knees, chicken wings and heel and toe. I placed three pieces on the entire pitch, 2 C4#4’s and 1 C4#5. There is a slung rap down and to climbers right.