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dzungaria's Logbook (3 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: Alaska: Alaskan Range: Denali-Mt. McKinley: The East Buttress

Catacomb Ridge Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

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Red Point Red Point ascent by: dzungaria on 1969-07-13 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

First ascent in 1969. The Cook Society claims this is the route by which Dr. Cook made his supposed first ascent of Denali. Those of us on the first ascent think this is highly improbable. As far as I know, this route has never been repeated. (Given the broken state of the Ruth Glacier, one has to begin the climb at ca. 5500' at the Mountain House.)

Added: 1969-07-13

Routes: North America: United States: Wyoming: Western Wy.: Grand Teton NP: Mt. Moran

Direct South Buttress Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

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Red Point Red Point ascent by: dzungaria on 1967-08-25 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

This is far and away the best alpine rock climb I have ever done. The rock is beautiful, and the crux section at the top of the buttress is spectacular. Route finding can be a problem; at least in the 60s many parties lost their way.

Added: 1967-08-25

Routes: North America: United States: Alaska: Wrangell-Saint Elias Ranges: Mt. Saint Elias: North Side

Northwest Ridge Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

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Onsight Onsight ascent by: dzungaria on 1965-07-30 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

For details, see Boyd N. Everett, Jr., "Northwest Ridge of St. Elias," American Alpine Journal 40 (1966): 19-24

Added: 1965-07-30