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jsunmatthews's Logbook (8 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: California: Riverside County: Riverside Rock Quarry: Left of the Roof

Raging Raptor Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jsunmatthews on 2013-02-10 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Long and wonderful 12a.

Ideal route for breaking into the grade. Pretty easy climbing to the first crux, which you want to hit pretty straight on (don't go out left, tag the crimp right by the bolt with your left hand and work up the ramp while moving up and right). Easy climbing up to a mantle that, if you can get your knee up to your face and plant a left foot, isn't hard. Roof move is much easier than it looks as there's a series of jugs above the roof. Make the roof clip, then go straight up with left hand first, then right, then left in a straight line. Then right up and right to the fat obvious flake.

Added: 2013-02-10

Routes: North America: United States: California: Riverside County: Riverside Rock Quarry: Left of the Roof

Buzzkill Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jsunmatthews on 2013-02-10 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars First 12c lead

Very well bolted series with three obvious crux moves. First is a low 12 crimp at around 6th bolt to a nice jug, second is after route joins Choss Revolution (palm a small sloper before shooting right for crimp and immediately bumping left foot to a nice divot just before the bolt parallel to the crux move). Easy climbing to some low anchors and then a rather hairy clip and a dino (at least for me) to a fat flake that affords easy climbing to the top. 70M rope will work with weight stretch but just barely, so watch yourself. You can always lower to the 100' anchors and descend from there.

Added: 2013-02-10

Routes: North America: United States: California: Riverside County: Riverside Rock Quarry: Left of the Roof

Quarryman Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: jsunmatthews on 2013-02-10 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great route, painful start.

Pop up to the first clip and move left. Series of painful crimps to a nice jug rest at I think fourth bolt if I recall. Pretty chill from then on until you get to the second crux near the top (lots of 10 and 11 moves). Great endurance play. One of the better mid-range 12s at the quarry.

Added: 2013-02-10

Routes: North America: United States: California: Riverside County: Riverside Rock Quarry: Roof Area

Hanging by a Thread Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: jsunmatthews on 2013-02-10 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Top crux makes you earn it

Took awhile to get this one, was always too burned out by the time I hit the final crux. Take the rests that make themselves available. Most of the loose stuff has come clean. The key to the top is locking in the hand jam before you move up. Being over 5'10" helps.

Added: 2013-02-10

Routes: North America: United States: California: Riverside County: Riverside Rock Quarry: Left of the Roof

Nostalgia Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jsunmatthews on 2013-02-10 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Pumpy fun

Think it's more 11b. But fairly sustained in parts and I've peeled a few times climbing it late in the day when I am pumped out. Balancey start (is that even a word?). Tricky mantle move if you can't reach the crimp on the slab.

Added: 2013-02-10

Routes: North America: United States: California: Riverside County: Riverside Rock Quarry: Roof Area

Trepanation Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: jsunmatthews on 2013-02-10 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Love me 100M rope

Worked it on TR for quite awhile. You can climb Salubrious to the right and inch up a 12c headwall to the anchors if you have a 100M rope and want to do the same.

Added: 2013-02-10

Routes: North America: United States: California: Riverside County: Riverside Rock Quarry: Left of the Roof

Choss Goggles Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: jsunmatthews on 2013-02-10 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Core blaster

Move out of roof fast or get ready to peel.

Added: 2013-02-10

Routes: North America: United States: California: Riverside County: Riverside Rock Quarry: Right of the Roof

Salubrious Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jsunmatthews on 2009-12-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Sketchy cruz hold has been glued

Second X on the route, a barn-door-waiting-to-happen horn maneuver a little more than halfway up, has been heavily epoxied and should be solid for many more years to come. X has been removed. This is one of my favorite 11c's in the quarry.

Added: 2009-12-18