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lucander's Logbook (492 ascents)

Climbing Log | Hit List (20)



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Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: Near Trapps

Swing Time Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lucander on 2012-03-14 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Swing Time

w/ Jason H, I led p. 2. Great pro and fantastic climbing in a memorable location - this route should see more traffic.

Added: 2012-03-14

Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: The Trapps

Midnight Cowboy Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lucander on 2011-11-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Midnight Cowboy

A mini-adventure up a seldom climbed wall. Building all the belays, route finding, and piecing together the climb make it feel a lot like a big climb. This was one of the highlights of my season.

Added: 2011-12-06

Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: The Trapps

Coexistence Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: lucander on 2011-12-05 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Coexistence

Finally led this without falling, third try in five years. Great moves from the ground to the chains, culminating in a cryptic crux at the top of the pitch. Rack to 1" works fin on this one. This climb feels like 5.11 until you figure it out, after that...5.9+

Added: 2011-12-05

Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: The Trapps

Birdie Party popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: lucander on 2011-10-31 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Birdie Party

Followed Brad84 up this in 2007, finally got around to leading it myself. What an outstanding route with fantastic moves from the ground to the GT. The hand traverse that ends pitch 1 is ridiculous, and the roof crux of pitch 2 is great athletic climbing. The bolt anchors midway up the first pitch are useless, really should be chopped, as should the absurd 70m toproping anchor (4 old cams) just above the roof on pitch 2.

Added: 2011-10-31

Routes: North America: United States: New York: Adirondack park: Poke-O-Moonshine: Main Face

Son of a Mother Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lucander on 2011-09-17 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Son of a Mother

Lots of fun, a really difficult clip at the first bolt and then some creative moves above it. A nice warm up or wind down on your way in or out of the Main Face.

Added: 2011-09-20

Routes: North America: United States: New York: Adirondack park: Poke-O-Moonshine: Main Face

The Snatch Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lucander on 2011-09-17 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars The Snatch

Really good climbing on both pitches. Giving this a pg 13 because of bad rock on pitch 1. The bolt halfway up pitch one looks new, it wasn't mentioned in Lawyer & Hass guidebook. I was glad to have it, though, as there is gear in rotten stone below and an iffy #3 camalot above it. Once past this section, protection is a no-brainer.

Added: 2011-09-20

Routes: North America: United States: New York: Adirondack park: Poke-O-Moonshine: Main Face

C-Tips Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lucander on 2011-09-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars C-Tips

Easier than it looks thanks to a spattering of conveniently spaced edges and laybacks, reminiscent of Solid Gold at Joshua Tree. I'd put this at 5.10, but not .10+, easier than Menace or Maestro. Reachy at times, especially at the 6th bolt.

Added: 2011-09-18

Routes: North America: United States: New York: Adirondack park: Poke-O-Moonshine: Main Face

Ukia Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lucander on 2011-09-11 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Ukia

Well protected and secure...once you're off the ground. Short and stupid, but if this were 150' long it would be a *** classic of Joshua Tree style slab/edging.

Added: 2011-09-12

Routes: North America: United States: New York: Adirondack park: Poke-O-Moonshine: Main Face

Cosmopolitan Wall Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lucander on 2011-09-11 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Cosmopolitan Wall

Cleaner than Cooney-Norton, but just as sustained. Outstanding crack climbing involving all kinds of trickery.

Added: 2011-09-12

Routes: North America: United States: New York: Adirondack park: Poke-O-Moonshine: Main Face

PT Pillar Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lucander on 2011-09-11 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars PT Pillar

Pretty fun and well protected, but a real grunter - felt like 5.9+
Often climbed to set up Macho (.11) on toprope, but worth doing on its own merits.

Added: 2011-09-12

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