Routes : Reviews
lucander's Logbook (492 ascents)
Climbing Log | Hit List (20)
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Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: Near Trapps
Swing Time Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.11a |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: lucander on 2012-03-14
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Swing Time
w/ Jason H, I led p. 2. Great pro and fantastic climbing in a memorable location - this route should see more traffic.
Added: 2012-03-14
Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: The Trapps
Midnight Cowboy Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
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Onsight ascent by: lucander on 2011-11-30
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Midnight Cowboy
A mini-adventure up a seldom climbed wall. Building all the belays, route finding, and piecing together the climb make it feel a lot like a big climb. This was one of the highlights of my season.
Added: 2011-12-06
Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: The Trapps
Coexistence Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10d |
Safety Rating | G |
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Red Point ascent by: lucander on 2011-12-05
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Coexistence
Finally led this without falling, third try in five years. Great moves from the ground to the chains, culminating in a cryptic crux at the top of the pitch. Rack to 1" works fin on this one. This climb feels like 5.11 until you figure it out, after that...5.9+
Added: 2011-12-05
Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: The Trapps
Birdie Party popular Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10b |
Safety Rating | G |
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Red Point ascent by: lucander on 2011-10-31
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Birdie Party
Followed Brad84 up this in 2007, finally got around to leading it myself. What an outstanding route with fantastic moves from the ground to the GT. The hand traverse that ends pitch 1 is ridiculous, and the roof crux of pitch 2 is great athletic climbing. The bolt anchors midway up the first pitch are useless, really should be chopped, as should the absurd 70m toproping anchor (4 old cams) just above the roof on pitch 2.
Added: 2011-10-31
Routes: North America: United States: New York: Adirondack park: Poke-O-Moonshine: Main Face
Son of a Mother Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.10b |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: lucander on 2011-09-17
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Son of a Mother
Lots of fun, a really difficult clip at the first bolt and then some creative moves above it. A nice warm up or wind down on your way in or out of the Main Face.
Added: 2011-09-20
Routes: North America: United States: New York: Adirondack park: Poke-O-Moonshine: Main Face
The Snatch Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.10b |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
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Onsight ascent by: lucander on 2011-09-17
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The Snatch
Really good climbing on both pitches. Giving this a pg 13 because of bad rock on pitch 1. The bolt halfway up pitch one looks new, it wasn't mentioned in Lawyer & Hass guidebook. I was glad to have it, though, as there is gear in rotten stone below and an iffy #3 camalot above it. Once past this section, protection is a no-brainer.
Added: 2011-09-20
Routes: North America: United States: New York: Adirondack park: Poke-O-Moonshine: Main Face
C-Tips Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10c |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: lucander on 2011-09-18
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C-Tips
Easier than it looks thanks to a spattering of conveniently spaced edges and laybacks, reminiscent of Solid Gold at Joshua Tree. I'd put this at 5.10, but not .10+, easier than Menace or Maestro. Reachy at times, especially at the 6th bolt.
Added: 2011-09-18
Routes: North America: United States: New York: Adirondack park: Poke-O-Moonshine: Main Face
Ukia Average Rating : 0.00/5
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Difficulty | 5.10a |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
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Onsight ascent by: lucander on 2011-09-11
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Ukia
Well protected and secure...once you're off the ground. Short and stupid, but if this were 150' long it would be a *** classic of Joshua Tree style slab/edging.
Added: 2011-09-12
Routes: North America: United States: New York: Adirondack park: Poke-O-Moonshine: Main Face
Cosmopolitan Wall Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10b |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
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Onsight ascent by: lucander on 2011-09-11
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Cosmopolitan Wall
Cleaner than Cooney-Norton, but just as sustained. Outstanding crack climbing involving all kinds of trickery.
Added: 2011-09-12
Routes: North America: United States: New York: Adirondack park: Poke-O-Moonshine: Main Face
PT Pillar Average Rating : 0.00/5
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.8 |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: lucander on 2011-09-11
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PT Pillar
Pretty fun and well protected, but a real grunter - felt like 5.9+
Often climbed to set up Macho (.11) on toprope, but worth doing on its own merits.
Often climbed to set up Macho (.11) on toprope, but worth doing on its own merits.
Added: 2011-09-12