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majid_sabet
May 6, 2008, 11:55 PM
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What is a good crampons for mixed level high alt ice ?
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coastal_climber
May 7, 2008, 12:39 AM
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Going for that 8000m?
>Cam
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julio412
May 7, 2008, 1:24 AM
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Mixed snow,ice and rock?Grivel Airtech
Mixed dry tool,ice? Grivel G-14s
What do you have now and why won't(can't you make them )they work?
In my opinion;familiarity and experience with an item more than makes up for any new fangledness.
What do I have?G-14s and MT ice vipers(only complaint-parts).
Good Luck
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majid_sabet
May 7, 2008, 6:48 AM
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julio412 wrote: Mixed snow,ice and rock?Grivel Airtech Mixed dry tool,ice? Grivel G-14s What do you have now and why won't(can't you make them )they work? In my opinion;familiarity and experience with an item more than makes up for any new fangledness. What do I have?G-14s and MT ice vipers(only complaint-parts). Good Luck
I need to a get good flexible crampon to fit with Koflch Artic expedition boot. I want the front clip of the crampons to come with a strap of some sort so the front clip does not pop off my boot again.
(This post was edited by majid_sabet on May 7, 2008, 7:13 AM)
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yokese
May 7, 2008, 7:49 AM
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You can't go wrong with Grivel. I don't know too much about the Air Tech, but I really like the G12s.
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go_dyno
May 7, 2008, 10:42 AM
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There are some hotrods around here and I'm not one of them but here is my 0.2 cents. I have Charlet Moser S12 Neumatics (a classic for Alpine)shorter horizontal front points, Grivel G12 Neumatics (longer horizontal front points) and Grivel G14 (step in with wire toe bail and adjustable vertical points). I have had to use a hammer to fit the G14 toe bail to my La Sportiva EVO Nepal Extremes b/c they have the new narrower footprint to them which I love. I did have my G14 come off this year on vertical ice which was because I was in a hurry and put the crampon tongue in the wrong notch, my fault! But many of my hardcore buddies prefer neumatic crampons because they fit a wider variety of boots and over boots aren't a problem and they believe they won't pop off as easily as wire bails. I think any quality crampon properly fitted isn't going to come off unless you screw up or you catastrophically break the golden rule: don't fall !
I know Steve House before he goes vertical pulls out the tongue spring of his crampons and replaces it with a screw and red loctites it on. As for which crampons he uses for High Alpine I can't say, the day I got to climb with him he had on Scarpa boots with the Petzl/Charlet Moser crampons dedicated to the Scarpa boot which won't help you with Koflachts. Good Luck!
God Bless
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go_dyno
May 7, 2008, 10:44 AM
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I just realized I don't even know if neumatic crampons work on plastic boots! 
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tomtom
May 7, 2008, 7:58 PM
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Petzl Vasaks.
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irregularpanda
May 7, 2008, 8:02 PM
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go_dyno wrote: \ I know Steve House before he goes vertical pulls out the tongue spring of his crampons and replaces it with a screw and red loctites it on. As for which crampons he uses for High Alpine I can't say, the day I got to climb with him he had on Scarpa boots with the Petzl/Charlet Moser crampons dedicated to the Scarpa boot which won't help you with Koflachts. Good Luck! God Bless
You spelled something wrong. It's actually Steve f*%king House.
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AlexCV
May 7, 2008, 9:25 PM
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I've got a pair of vasak with the leverlock binding (basket front, not a wire like tomtom posted but similar rear). Works real well.
If you insist on the a toe bail with a strap, get the sabretooth pro from BD. It'll fit your kofflach well, the front welt sticks out perfectly.
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go_dyno
May 9, 2008, 12:42 AM
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The Climber
I just included that b/c I have no experience with Plastics and didn't want to speak for using something I has no experience with. I'm glad you could clarify that! I didn't know if the toe rand on plastics was bail specific or not.
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the_climber
May 9, 2008, 3:09 PM
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go_dyno wrote: The Climber I just included that b/c I have no experience with Plastics and didn't want to speak for using something I has no experience with. I'm glad you could clarify that! I didn't know if the toe rand on plastics was bail specific or not.
GD, yeah, my "uh.. ya" was ment with friendly sarcasm. Hope you took it that way.
With the NewMatic binding the toe bail acts like a cup around the toe regardless of the material the boot is made off. There are lots of people who are wary of the toe bail being plastic, hell I was when I first got them, but the fact of the matter is that the toe bail isn't weighted much at all; especially when front pionting. As far as performance with a NewMatic binding I find it has a far more secure feel and greater feedback from the 'poons through the boot. Durability... well lets just say I've put the poon's through frozen hell and back. Having broken more than my fair share of crampons I'd have to say that the G14's are the most durable poon's I've climbed on.
If you havn't tried the NewMatic I'd recomend you do, hell you may never go back.
(This post was edited by the_climber on May 9, 2008, 3:12 PM)
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majid_sabet
May 11, 2008, 2:38 PM
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no way guys, I am not going to buy crampons with this sort of clip in the front. one of my crampon came off while hanging on one leg on the face of 660 foot ice wall in hi alt expedition.I can not effort of taking chances like that again.
[URL=http://imageshack.us]
I want some thing like this with a strap in the front.
[URL=http://imageshack.us]
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reno
May 12, 2008, 3:14 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: I want some thing like this with a strap in the front.
Then buy those.
Why is this so difficult?
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stymingersfink
May 12, 2008, 3:43 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: no way guys, I am not going to buy crampons with this sort of clip in the front. one of my crampon came off while hanging on one leg on the face of 660 foot ice wall in hi alt expedition.I can not effort of taking chances like that again. [URL=http://imageshack.us] I want some thing like this with a strap in the front. [URL=http://imageshack.us]
good technique goes far toward preventing kicking them off.
if you worked on that as much as you work on your trawling efforts...
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Scooter12ga
May 14, 2008, 1:04 AM
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I'll second the Petzl Vasak crampons...though my preference is for full straps since I have a HUGE boot (la sportiva nuptse) and I will also use them on my standard hiking boots here in NM. IMO, I found that clip style bindings were a PITA when the snow was wet and fingers were cold - I could never get them to seat correctly against the sole of my boot.
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tundraline
May 14, 2008, 1:10 AM
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I have the Grivel G14 newmatics. Work great everywhere, and while only 50 grams heavier than the G12s, they are much better on water ice and the steep stuff. Never had a problem with flexing or twisting with the newmatic setup, which is much less likely to pop off than a toe bail setup.
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sknowlton
May 15, 2008, 4:10 PM
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I also have the G-12's that work perfectly with my Koflach Arctis Expe's.
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AlexCV
May 15, 2008, 6:12 PM
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Majid, get those then:
I'm sure you've got a BD catalog handy for the price/model name.
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majid_sabet
May 15, 2008, 8:13 PM
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AlexCV wrote: Majid, get those then: [image]http://static.backcountry.com/images/items/medium/BLD/BLD0980/SPSIL.jpg[/image] I'm sure you've got a BD catalog handy for the price/model name.
I get BD pro-deals so I guess I would just buy these if you think they are good.
THANKS
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the_climber
May 15, 2008, 8:20 PM
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Majid, do yourself a favour and get the NewMatic style of binding. In my experiance they're more secure, fit more boots, and more versitile (ie. if you were wanting to bot super gaters on your boots).
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majid_sabet
May 15, 2008, 8:23 PM
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the_climber wrote: Majid, do yourself a favour and get the NewMatic style of binding. In my experiance they're more secure, fit more boots, and more versitile (ie. if you were wanting to bot super gaters on your boots).
As long as the front clip comes with a starap, I am ok with any high end models.
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the_climber
May 15, 2008, 8:27 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: the_climber wrote: Majid, do yourself a favour and get the NewMatic style of binding. In my experiance they're more secure, fit more boots, and more versitile (ie. if you were wanting to bot super gaters on your boots). As long as the front clip comes with a starap, I am ok with any high end models.
True, but other considerations are the fact that at altitude people tend to get less coordinated, and the NewMatic style binding is faster/easier to put on your boot properly. And, you never have to worry about the toe welt being iced up.
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