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yodadave
Jun 22, 2009, 1:19 AM
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So i just met a kid who "leads ice climbing trips".
He claims that his program uses dynamic ropes for toprope only trips. He also claimed that it was a lot better for the climber to use a dynamic rope for TRing. Any time I'm TRing and have a choice i always use a static line. Anyone familiar with this dynamic only approach to TRing ice??
The real reason i care is that he appears to have been taught this mentality from a well reputed Outdoor Ed college and I'd hate to think that some prof. there is teaching this unless there is a good reason.
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herbertpowell
Jun 22, 2009, 1:39 AM
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I use whatever rope I have available to toprope. . . and since I don't usually have a need for a static line, I thus use my dynamic ropes to toprope. I can't think of a problem with it.
I'm not sure that using dynamic rope is "a lot better" for top rope. . . I actually think it really doesn't matter.
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yodadave
Jun 22, 2009, 1:43 AM
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yeah, just to clarify this is really talking about in the case of guiding where the best "tool for the job" mentality should be used.
For personal use i only have dynamic ropes. But would a guiding service advocate the use of dynamics for TRing?
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bill413
Jun 22, 2009, 1:59 AM
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Well, in theory, a dynamic rope will put less impact on the anchors used. Though, should you be guiding TR on anchors where that makes a difference?
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yodadave
Jun 22, 2009, 11:50 PM
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Bump
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no_limit
Jun 23, 2009, 2:09 AM
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Why would you bump this? (rhetorical)
You got your answer. Dynamic rope is fine. It is really personal preference when it comes to TRing, in my mind. I prefer dynamic, mostly because it would be a waste of my time and energy to buy and carry a static rope.
(This post was edited by no_limit on Jun 23, 2009, 2:10 AM)
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yodadave
Jun 23, 2009, 2:16 AM
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I bumped it because the question you are answering is not the one i am asking.
What i was trying to ask is in relation to guiding services and groups. Meaning that it doesn't relate to what me and my buddy would do, its about what would be best practice. At ropes courses where people pay to come climb we use static lines because it gives the customers the best experience, we don't just bring in our lead cords cause their in our cars. Hope this makes sense to you now. I know that either can be used i want to know what is best practice within the professional industry.
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glytch
Jun 23, 2009, 2:45 AM
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Using dynamic ropes to TR is a fine practice, professionally or otherwise. You can make arguments for either static or dynamic ropes for TR purposes, but really, either is fine. The same is not true for ropes courses.
Really, though, you should stop asking this question, now. The professional industry uses dynamic ropes to toprope all the time.
Done.
Fin.
Please.
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reno
Jun 23, 2009, 4:08 AM
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yodadave wrote: What i was trying to ask is in relation to guiding services and groups. Meaning that it doesn't relate to what me and my buddy would do, its about what would be best practice.
A piece of advice? You won't get a firm answer on "Best Practices" from a website.
That said, I see no real, tangible, measurable, benefit from using static ropes to TR an ice route vis-a-vis dynamic ropes. That is, I don't see why or how a dynamic rope is inherently worse than a static rope for an ice TR setup, and I do see benefits to the dynamic rope.
But if you're guiding clients, and you have to ask this question, then perhaps you ought reconsider your chosen vocation.
Just sayin'.
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Guran
Jun 23, 2009, 7:24 AM
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reno wrote: That said, I see no real, tangible, measurable, benefit from using static ropes to TR an ice route vis-a-vis dynamic ropes. That is, I don't see why or how a dynamic rope is inherently worse than a static rope for an ice TR setup, and I do see benefits to the dynamic rope.
Well if I try really hard, I can make a point for static on ice vis-a-vis rock.
If you set up a really long TR then rope stretch becomes a factor. The climber could fall up to two meters plus any slack before coming to a stop.
It might be possible, esp. for a beginner, to get a front point stuck in the ice during such a fall, hurting an ankle or suffer some soft-flesh-and-pointy-tools related injury.
This would not be much of an issue for regular climbers. Certainly not enough to warrant an extra rope just for (some) top rope climbs, but for a guide with beginners it might be reason enough. Esp since he would wear out all his ropes anyway so the extra cost of a dedicated top rope would not really matter.
But this is speculation, and a bit far fetched.
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gargrantuan
Jun 24, 2009, 6:33 PM
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AFAIK Yamnuska Mountain School uses dynamic ropes for TR set-ups and they probably teach more beginners ice climbing than anyone else..
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Factor2
Jun 24, 2009, 7:14 PM
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definitely static ropes. There's just too many cases of dynamic ropes breaking to trust them anymore. I would link examples, but there's so many that I can't find them.
(This post was edited by Factor2 on Jun 24, 2009, 7:15 PM)
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yodadave
Jun 25, 2009, 2:08 AM
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thanks man, I appreciate the info.
I'm also gonna talk to the guys at Fox mtn guides, since the topic interests me.
As for the majority of you others posters thanks for restoring my faith in the fact that the average RC.comer has no comprehension skills and is about as insightful as a dead bunny. Always good to be reminded what the internet is good for and what it isn't. 
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bill413
Jun 25, 2009, 2:31 AM
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yodadave wrote: As for the majority of you others posters thanks for restoring my faith in the fact that the average RC.comer has no comprehension skills and is about as insightful as a dead bunny.
Oh, well, in any case, thanks.
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