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apollodorus
Mar 14, 2002, 11:41 AM
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One of the local rocks near me has a very long, continuous face that is mostly munge. It's definitely not a free climb. It's totally virgin. I want to do it in big-wall fashion, just for the practice. My question is this: has anybody else aided up pure garden munge? I have enough pins to make it A1, but should I just clean the cracks and C2 it? It's steep enough that a fall would rip bad placements. Should I just brush the cracks? The whole thing needs brushing.
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rrrADAM
Mar 14, 2002, 12:12 PM
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Probably bad practice to destroy the vegitation by cleaning it, if it's not going to be an established route. That's kinda akin to cleaning the vegitation from the base of a boulder just to do it once, and may be viewed as "anti-access" behavior.
Just my opinion.
rrrADAM
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pamola
Mar 14, 2002, 12:39 PM
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I agree with rrradam. I don't think it is a good idea. To me it seems very destructive. Again, that is only my opinion.
Peace and climb safe....
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passthepitonspete
Mar 15, 2002, 12:42 AM
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Part of the adventure of trad climbing is to make first ascents in good style.
The best way that you could climb that, Tom, would be to aid solo it from the ground up, on sight, and climb it as cleanly as you possibly could, trying to minimize the nailing.
If it's a stellar line, then maybe it'll see some traffic, and it will become cleaned.
If you don't do it, someone else will, and they may not do it in as good style as you.
This is better than rap cleaning, don't you think?
Be careful WHAT you clean!
I believe it is legit to clean out grass and dirt and maybe small plants, but if there is a tree that is big enough to use as pro, or maybe even not so big, I think you should leave it. The tree is part of the line of weakness, and you are attempting to climb the cliff by its line of weakness, without artificially increasing the grade.
And if you have to drill...
....you will receive the wrath of Dr. Piton when we are on the wall in May!
You may find yourself without beer more than one night!
In fact, if you have to drill, you probably don't really have to drill - you should back off and leave it for someone who can climb it in better style, or who has bigger balls.
It takes greater courage to back off, then to cheat by drilling!
Note:
On aid climbs, sometimes drilling is the only option. You need to have enough experience to make the correct decision - remember that all future generations henceforth forever and ever amen will be affected by your unilateral decision.
Think about it, and be slow to draw the drill.
Good luck, and tell us how it goes!
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apollodorus
Mar 17, 2002, 2:09 AM
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Thanks for the replies. It would be a bad idea to clean a whole swath, because it would leave an ugly white streak, sort of like Reed's Direct when viewed from the road.
I can clean just enough from the crack to place a piece, move up, and do it again. Hauling is out, because it would probably leave a big streak up the wall, and my bag would turn black and slimy. The munge is a mutated lichen, with some sort of fungus/algae DNA corrupting its own.
And Doc, you don't have to worry about my placing bolts, even at belays. There are plenty of cracks in the granitic rock; they're just full of dirt. And as far as rap cleaning goes, I will have to rap clean if I solo it 8-)
But, I would never consider rapping from the top with a broom. Or rapping to scope it out. Or sieging it. I can't comprehend people bolting routes on rappel, and then claiming a first ascent (first descent, fine).
[ This Message was edited by: apollodorus on 2002-03-16 18:18 ]
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joemor
Mar 27, 2002, 4:57 AM
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how the assent goin, done it yet???
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apollodorus
Mar 27, 2002, 6:32 AM
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I went up and looked at it from the base. It looks like there are plenty of cracks, and most of the munge is a surface scum. The cracks are very dirty, though. I'm still getting some gear together. I gave most of my gear away a few years ago (DOH!), because I thought I was done climbing.
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