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TheOnlyJaces
Apr 5, 2013, 3:46 PM
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Hey guys.
I've seen some great video out there of people establishing some bouldering routes.
'The abyss video come to mind right now'
When the boulder is relatively high, they set up a rope protection so they can clean and test the hold for the routes.
Does anyone have any idea on how to properly and securely do this ?
Like, how would you set it up with a tree and without a tree for instance.
Im generally alone right now and I own a ATC only ,no grigri.
Since im developing a lot of problems, I want to make them safe for everyone and clean. But once it gets a little higher, it's hard to clean up and to test the solidity of the holds etc.
Any tips will be really appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Jaces
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marc801
Apr 5, 2013, 6:53 PM
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TheOnlyJaces wrote: Hey guys. I've seen some great video out there of people establishing some bouldering routes. 'The abyss video come to mind right now' When the boulder is relatively high, they set up a rope protection so they can clean and test the hold for the routes. Does anyone have any idea on how to properly and securely do this ? Like, how would you set it up with a tree and without a tree for instance. Im generally alone right now and I own a ATC only ,no grigri. Since im developing a lot of problems, I want to make them safe for everyone and clean. But once it gets a little higher, it's hard to clean up and to test the solidity of the holds etc. Any tips will be really appreciated. Thanks in advance. Jaces
Get books and read.
Read all the FAQs on this site.
Read the basic explanation of rock climbing, also on this site.
Hire a guide/take a rock climbing class.
What you're asking doesn't lend itself to a discussion reply. You've basically asked how to rock climb.
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Ruff_Dog
Apr 5, 2013, 8:37 PM
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I agree with what Marc said. And also, I think you need a GriGri to self-belay. I've never seen it done without one. Correct me if I'm wrong..
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TheOnlyJaces
Apr 5, 2013, 9:32 PM
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IzWxE58sEOs
At 0:35 for instance. ( I could put up a lot of video but it's just for the principle).
So what your saying is that they drill up and bolt it so they can put up their anchor ?
They would do that for the 100+ problem that are to high or hard to clean/work ??
That doesnt make sens at all to me.
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Ruff_Dog
Apr 5, 2013, 9:46 PM
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TheOnlyJaces wrote: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IzWxE58sEOs At 0:35 for instance. ( I could put up a lot of video but it's just for the principle). So what your saying is that they drill up and bolt it so they can put up their anchor ? They would do that for the 100+ problem that are to high or hard to clean/work ?? That doesnt make sens at all to me.
I'm not saying any of that. They probably walk up there or get up there somehow...now, some bouldering problems don't have that.. so you can't do this, but they make an anchor )you know what that is, yes?) and from that anchor, they make a top rope. Then they tie into it to clear it, I'm assuming. And if you notice that the guy at 0:35 also has two other ropes attached to his feet..I don't know what that's for, but maybe someone else does.
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TheOnlyJaces
Apr 5, 2013, 10:10 PM
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Perhaps im having a bad time explaining myself.
Here's a better idea
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gLnM389Wo9Y
19:00 or so
or at 27:30 for example.
Are you saying he is making an anchor with cams in the available cracks ?
Anyways, I'll go read my books XD
thanks anyways...
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Ruff_Dog
Apr 6, 2013, 12:13 AM
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No, I'm pretty sure using cams would be unsafe. Do you know how to make an anchor?
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TheOnlyJaces
Apr 6, 2013, 12:24 AM
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Not with nothing.
I have a book about natural anchors such as a tree or more. But other than that no.
The only anchors I know of is with 2 bolt hangers already bolted into the rock such as in sport climbing.
I also came across this video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xLz6fgzHp1c
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Ruff_Dog
Apr 6, 2013, 12:27 AM
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Perhaps make a natural anchor to TR from? And then use that to clean the route?
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Kartessa
Apr 6, 2013, 11:18 PM
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TheOnlyJaces wrote: Not with nothing. I have a book about natural anchors such as a tree or more. But other than that no. The only anchors I know of is with 2 bolt hangers already bolted into the rock such as in sport climbing. I also came across this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xLz6fgzHp1c
For Posterity
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Kartessa
Apr 6, 2013, 11:25 PM
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TheOnlyJaces wrote: Not with nothing. I have a book about natural anchors such as a tree or more. But other than that no. The only anchors I know of is with 2 bolt hangers already bolted into the rock such as in sport climbing. I also came across this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xLz6fgzHp1c
You should totally hammer in some pins at the top of your boulders... would be a super classy move.
Otherwise, get off the internet, make some friends and find someone to show you how to rock climb... they also make a book called "Freedom of the Hills" I hear its pretty good.
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marc801
Apr 7, 2013, 12:03 AM
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Kartessa wrote: Otherwise, get off the internet, make some friends and find someone to show you how to rock climb... they also make a book called "Freedom of the Hills" I hear its pretty good.
http://www.amazon.com/...ds=how+to+rock+climb
I hear this John Long guy is kinda knowledgeable and knows a little bit about rock climbing.
Also, I just wonder if there's some information on this very site, which, OMG!, is about rock climbing.......
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...e_Graveyard_981.html
(This post was edited by marc801 on Apr 7, 2013, 12:16 AM)
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dagibbs
Apr 7, 2013, 3:07 AM
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Drop me an email gibbs_da at yahoo dot ca -- I live in Ottawa, and if we take a walk by where you're trying to do this, I might be able to come up with some ideas for you.
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Gravitron5000
Apr 8, 2013, 4:45 PM
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Ruff_Dog wrote: No, I'm pretty sure using cams would be unsafe. Do you know how to make an anchor?
As long as you have a decent placement for them, how would cams be unsafe?
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Ruff_Dog
Apr 8, 2013, 6:34 PM
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Oh. After looking it up, I guess you can use it as an anchor. My logic was pretty bad. Sorry!
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Ruff_Dog
Apr 8, 2013, 6:35 PM
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I wish I had older friends to show me how to climb properly while outside.. 
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Ruff_Dog
Apr 8, 2013, 6:50 PM
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Sorry?
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Gravitron5000
Apr 9, 2013, 4:41 PM
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Hey Jaces.
None of the video you posted shows what they did to fix the rope, so it's not really helpful. Although I have seen bolts on some boulders that were placed either for cleaning or because there is really no other safe way to get off the boulder, from my experience, it is not common practice to bolt boulders. I would avoid that route if you are developing an area. I would do some research into trad anchors (there were a number of books recommended above), or if some sturdy trees are available you can build an anchor off of them. Advice provided via forum is going to be general, as we have no idea of what you have available, and each boulder could require a very different anchoring scheme.
If I were you, I would take daibbs up on his offer.
Ruff_Dog wrote: I agree with what Marc said. And also, I think you need a GriGri to self-belay. I've never seen it done without one. Correct me if I'm wrong..
Sorry, but you're wrong on this one as well. You are essentially either rapelling or ascending the rope, so an ATC with some sort of backup (I would use a prusik) should be enough to keep you safe. A grigri works too, but you'll still want it backed up if you are planning on cleaning, as your hands will not be on the rope. There are other options as well.
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Ruff_Dog
Apr 9, 2013, 9:07 PM
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Well....I fail. Sorry then, Jaces! And I wasn't thinking of using a Prusik, so I can see how you self-belay with an ATC now. Thanks for correcting me Gravitron
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curt
Apr 16, 2013, 4:47 AM
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TheOnlyJaces wrote: Hey guys. I've seen some great video out there of people establishing some bouldering routes. 'The abyss video come to mind right now' When the boulder is relatively high, they set up a rope protection so they can clean and test the hold for the routes. Does anyone have any idea on how to properly and securely do this ? Like, how would you set it up with a tree and without a tree for instance. Im generally alone right now and I own a ATC only ,no grigri. Since im developing a lot of problems, I want to make them safe for everyone and clean. But once it gets a little higher, it's hard to clean up and to test the solidity of the holds etc. Any tips will be really appreciated. Thanks in advance. Jaces
Try trolling a different website?
Curt
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jt512
Apr 16, 2013, 6:11 AM
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Who says rockclimbing.com is dead.
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roadstead
Apr 16, 2013, 2:27 PM
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jt512 wrote: Who says rockclimbing.com is dead.
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TheOnlyJaces
Apr 16, 2013, 8:33 PM
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curt wrote: TheOnlyJaces wrote: Hey guys. I've seen some great video out there of people establishing some bouldering routes. 'The abyss video come to mind right now' When the boulder is relatively high, they set up a rope protection so they can clean and test the hold for the routes. Does anyone have any idea on how to properly and securely do this ? Like, how would you set it up with a tree and without a tree for instance. Im generally alone right now and I own a ATC only ,no grigri. Since im developing a lot of problems, I want to make them safe for everyone and clean. But once it gets a little higher, it's hard to clean up and to test the solidity of the holds etc. Any tips will be really appreciated. Thanks in advance. Jaces Try trolling a different website? Curt
Try trolling a different thread.
Im good at bouldering. Just never have the opportunity to learn much about anchors. I do have some books but it's hard to visualise it from a book. Also, I don't have the money to pay 100-200$ for a lesson. My equipment is limited to a rope and quickdraws. As was trying to gather some information so I can learn what I need exactly.
I was thinking of simply buying a telescopic ladder but I read way to many negative review about these.
Thanks for the real replies up there and I appreciate the help.
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