|
tylert222
Mar 9, 2011, 2:45 AM
Post #1 of 23
(14237 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 24, 2010
Posts: 37
|
I do mostly indoor bouldering. I have done v3 and almost a v4 in my local gym (bigrockclimbinggym.com) Would i be able to climb the same problems outdoor. What have u found out. Is an v3 indoor harder then a v3 outdoor?
The only outdoor bouldering ive done is boulder i found on private property that weren rated.
|
|
|
|
|
johnwesely
Mar 9, 2011, 2:56 AM
Post #2 of 23
(14223 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
|
tylert222 wrote: I do mostly indoor bouldering. I have done v3 and almost a v4 in my local gym (bigrockclimbinggym.com) Would i be able to climb the same problems outdoor. What have u found out. Is an v3 indoor harder then a v3 outdoor? The only outdoor bouldering ive done is boulder i found on private property that weren rated.
I doubt the same problems would be outdoors.
|
|
|
|
|
tylert222
Mar 9, 2011, 3:05 AM
Post #3 of 23
(14220 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 24, 2010
Posts: 37
|
yeah i know, but do you find that gym v3s are harder then outdoor v3s? or vice versa?
|
|
|
|
|
shockabuku
Mar 9, 2011, 3:08 AM
Post #4 of 23
(14218 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4868
|
It can depend on the gym but, in my experience, generally outdoor problems are harder than indoor ones of the same grade.
|
|
|
|
|
MidnightR
Mar 9, 2011, 9:26 AM
Post #5 of 23
(14137 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 16, 2010
Posts: 42
|
It depends on your gym. My gym during term time in London seems to set problems that are on par with or perhaps even harder than those outside of the same grade. This is quite rare however, for instance my home gym in Hull I can climb boulders 2 V grades above what I can in London.
|
|
|
|
|
lena_chita
Moderator
Mar 9, 2011, 4:53 PM
Post #6 of 23
(14097 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
|
Some gyms grade stiffly, others softly, some outdoor areas are traditionally stiff, while others are soft, so it is hard to say about your particular gym in relationship to an outdoor area that you have in mind.
But as a new climber who goes outside for the first time, you will most likely find the outdoor problems to be harder, because there is no tape marking where your feet and hands go, the rock feels very different than the gym holds, and because, all of a sudden, you are a lot more mindful of bad landings and less willing to commit to hard-for-you moves.
|
|
|
|
|
saint_john
Mar 9, 2011, 6:25 PM
Post #7 of 23
(14061 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 4, 2010
Posts: 494
|
grades for both indoor and outdoor problems are highly subjective.
|
|
|
|
|
cornstateclimber
Mar 9, 2011, 6:38 PM
Post #8 of 23
(14055 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 24, 2005
Posts: 324
|
same goes for taller routes too, it really depends on who did the grading, routesetting, or first ascent. grades are differnet the world around
|
|
|
|
|
kazanthink
Mar 9, 2011, 8:54 PM
Post #9 of 23
(14015 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 30, 2010
Posts: 16
|
I climb at big rock I would say the indoor grades are slightly easier then outdoor grades (local ones at least).
I think some of that comes down to having to find the right beta while working outside since you dont have a color coded line of holds to follow.
|
|
|
|
|
lazymonkey
Mar 10, 2011, 11:59 PM
Post #10 of 23
(13920 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 20, 2010
Posts: 75
|
even if you go down a grade....its about 10x as much fun. and painful.
|
|
|
|
|
sp00ki
Mar 11, 2011, 1:04 AM
Post #11 of 23
(13904 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 2, 2009
Posts: 552
|
I understand your interest in knowing first, but your best bet really is to just go try.
Everything-- from your personal ability to deal with heights/fear/scary landings, to the type of rock you'll be climbing on, to the types of problems at your gym, to the grades at your gym to the grades at your local bouldering area, etc-- will factor into how well you'll be able to transition to climbing outside.
Your best bet is to go climb. At the very least-- even if you can't send more than a chossy v1-- you'll gain some insight into climbing and learn a bit about what it means to boulder in your area.
Really, no one here can answer that. You're better off discussing this with climbers at your bouldering gym, or (even better) just visit a few nearby areas.
(This post was edited by sp00ki on Mar 11, 2011, 1:05 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
Masterkush
Mar 15, 2011, 7:43 AM
Post #12 of 23
(13750 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 9, 2010
Posts: 69
|
get out there and climb so real rock man its so much more fun. Most people will tell you indoor climbing is alot easier which is usually the case but some places (like the gym i go to when its raining) rate there stuff really hard to get a more realistic feel to it.
|
|
|
|
|
FrankyFiveFingers
Mar 23, 2011, 3:30 PM
Post #13 of 23
(13564 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2010
Posts: 24
|
saint_john wrote: grades for both indoor and outdoor problems are highly subjective.
exactly right.....at the end of the day it breaks down to 2 grades, routes you can climb, and routes you cant.
|
|
|
|
|
clim.br
Mar 31, 2011, 11:48 AM
Post #14 of 23
(13413 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 30, 2011
Posts: 20
|
shockabuku wrote: It can depend on the gym but, in my experience, generally outdoor problems are harder than indoor ones of the same grade.
You know, I often can climb harder grades outdoors. And I know you`re probably think "well, your gym must grade their problems lower than what they might actually be".
To be honest, I don`t go to a specific gym. I travel a lot due to my work, and I`ve climbed in these:
http://www.aiguille.com/home/index.shtml
http://www.verticalventures.com/
http://www.altitudeescalada.com.br/
and most recently on a trip to Albuquerque:
http://www.climbstoneage.com/
Indoors I climb 6s and 7s. Outdoors I`ve been able to pull one 10, and even 9s and 8s on first tries.
|
|
|
|
|
tylert222
Mar 31, 2011, 2:00 PM
Post #15 of 23
(13370 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 24, 2010
Posts: 37
|
I went to vertical ventures in febuary....they seemed to grade their routes hard... there v2s were like v3s
|
|
|
|
|
ahohncke
May 12, 2011, 8:07 AM
Post #16 of 23
(12843 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 7, 2011
Posts: 4
|
If it is a good gym and they know what they are doing the level of difficulty should definitely match that of any outdoor route. The only thing you have to worry about is the elements, which can always make outdoor climbing a bit different and trickier (even wind!)
|
|
|
|
|
chatreed
May 13, 2011, 8:54 AM
Post #17 of 23
(12778 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 13, 2011
Posts: 23
|
If you really wanna have a try,just go ahead,then share your feeling later
|
|
|
|
|
robx
May 13, 2011, 11:20 AM
Post #18 of 23
(12768 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 11, 2011
Posts: 108
|
I had only really bouldered at one gym, and was always surprised how well the grades matched up to the bouldering near where I live. Then I went to another gym for the first time and was bouldering a full 2 grades above what I climb at my home gym, or outside.
It made me understand what people on the internet were talking about when they bitch about gyms being easier.
|
|
|
|
|
ceebo
May 13, 2011, 12:58 PM
Post #19 of 23
(12755 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 9, 2009
Posts: 862
|
Going from indoor to outdoor is not a physical problem (at least i found). As some already said, its the fact that you will mostly be trying to on sight routes with holds that are not so obviously marked.
Does not take long to get into that mindset though.. after a few trips outdoor the transition is as good as done. So long as your gym does not grade them really soft you will be climbing near enough the same shit.
|
|
|
|
|
cacalderon
May 14, 2011, 7:00 PM
Post #20 of 23
(12671 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 10, 2006
Posts: 150
|
grades are subjective.. it depends... some gyms are stiff but in general i would guess outdoors are harder since it is not a controlled environment.
(This post was edited by cacalderon on May 14, 2011, 7:02 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
userdude
May 16, 2011, 10:25 AM
Post #21 of 23
(12558 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 7, 2010
Posts: 33
|
Now that's a great post johnwesely. No wonder you have a few thousand.
To the OP: I'm no johnwesely, but it's been my experience that outdoor grades are more accurate and not as soft as the few gyms I've climbed in.
|
|
|
|
|
JoeHamilton
Jul 17, 2011, 8:55 PM
Post #22 of 23
(11782 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 16, 2011
Posts: 815
|
lazymonkey wrote: even if you go down a grade....its about 10x as much fun. and painful.
|
|
|
|
|
flesh
Jul 22, 2011, 4:48 PM
Post #23 of 23
(11610 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 11, 2011
Posts: 419
|
I go to 4 different gyms. In my experience v8 and lower is easier inside, v9 and higher is easier outside.
|
|
|
|
|
|
