Mar 17, 2010, 2:04 AM
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Redpoint Competition Strategy
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I competed in my first competition a couple of weekends ago. While I was talking to some of the judges and other climbers there seemed to be a big debate over redpoint competition strategy.
Note: If this has been discussed previously, would you kindly point me to the thread before flaming me for not using the search button?
Here is what I tell my kids: Fill your score card up first. Knock off routes that you know you can do. I do not mean go for the jug hauls, but climb at what ever you know you can onsite, and get 5 of those on your score card. Once your score card is full, start going through and eliminating the lowest point routes with harder climbs that you might fall on. Many competitors do not fill their scorecard, even though they are climbing hard routes. Since usually your top 5 scores are used, 5x900 is worth more than 3x1200.
I competed in my first competition a couple of weekends ago. While I was talking to some of the judges and other climbers there seemed to be a big debate over redpoint competition strategy.
Note: If this has been discussed previously, would you kindly point me to the thread before flaming me for not using the search button?
Dude your polls is frickin awesome for a first post.
Here is what I tell my kids: Fill your score card up first. Knock off routes that you know you can do. I do not mean go for the jug hauls, but climb at what ever you know you can onsite, and get 5 of those on your score card. Once your score card is full, start going through and eliminating the lowest point routes with harder climbs that you might fall on. Many competitors do not fill their scorecard, even though they are climbing hard routes. Since usually your top 5 scores are used, 5x900 is worth more than 3x1200.
Also, in many comps, a flash is worth more than a send on the second try. Assuming you have the time to spare, hang out and watch several competitors before stepping up.
(This post was edited by j_ung on Mar 18, 2010, 1:37 PM)
Right! Usually points go 1000/990/980 depending on tries. (points vary depending on difficulty)
As a coach what I see happening though is that kids wait to get their cards in a stack and sometimes only get 4 routes on their card. They end up placing below kids with 5 routes of easier climbs. This depends greatly on the gym and the time allotment for climbing. Our walls are 50 feet, and some gyms are only 20.
Warm up on some easier climbs if you're not already warmed up. They start to give you a sense of how the routes (usually getting harder as the point value increases) are scaled. I generally jump two numbers at a time until I get to the point where I can tell I'm close to my limit. If I have to score 5 routes I usually try to have my hardest be number 3 of those 5 and then go back to get the other two. If you want to place well in a comp, getting all 5 of 5 (x of x) routes is important. Many people do run themselves out of time and end up short the required number of routes or put something lame on at the end because it's what they could get on. I won't try a particular route too many times if I don't get it but, it does depend on what happened; three tries is about the most I'll give.
On the other hand, evaluate whether or not a high score matters to you. If you're a USA Climbing competitor scores at redpoint comps don't usually mean much other than that you attended so maybe you just want to work something interesting or get on lots of routes. USAC Regionals, Divisionals, and Nationals are all onsight comps.
Shokabuku made an excellent post. Use that advice.
Several years back, then the organization was called the JCCA (Junior Competition Climbing Association) and USCCA (US Competition Climbing Association), there were times when individual comps helped competitors accrue points towards Divisionals and Nationals.
It was not uncommon to see competitors making obscenely long road trips to attend comps in what they considered "weaker" regions. Not terribly sporting, but in a way it did help stronger competitors advance.
I think with the growth of the sport and the preponderance of gyms since those early days, the current situation is fair.
Edited to add that I have a 3' x 4' banner hanging on the wall of my shop with this logo.
(This post was edited by edge on Mar 18, 2010, 6:02 PM)
Warm up on some easier climbs if you're not already warmed up. They start to give you a sense of how the routes (usually getting harder as the point value increases) are scaled. I generally jump two numbers at a time until I get to the point where I can tell I'm close to my limit. If I have to score 5 routes I usually try to have my hardest be number 3 of those 5 and then go back to get the other two. If you want to place well in a comp, getting all 5 of 5 (x of x) routes is important. Many people do run themselves out of time and end up short the required number of routes or put something lame on at the end because it's what they could get on. I won't try a particular route too many times if I don't get it but, it does depend on what happened; three tries is about the most I'll give.
On the other hand, evaluate whether or not a high score matters to you. If you're a USA Climbing competitor scores at redpoint comps don't usually mean much other than that you attended so maybe you just want to work something interesting or get on lots of routes. USAC Regionals, Divisionals, and Nationals are all onsight comps.
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