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boulder_boy
Apr 5, 2004, 1:50 AM
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Uhm their a bouldering competition in shoshone idaho may 1st and this will be my first one and Im kinda clueless on what I need to know.
what I was wondering is their any helpful hints that you guys could share to help me with the comp? thanks
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reprieve
Apr 5, 2004, 1:52 AM
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spend as much time as you can scoping out problems before the comp starts, that way you can figure out where you want to start. my first time, the comp started, and everybody ran to the problems the wanted to do, and i just kind of wandered around for a while wasting time.
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karmaklimber
Apr 5, 2004, 2:00 AM
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First and foremost, have fun. :)
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cin
Apr 5, 2004, 2:48 AM
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If you see someone way better than you climbing. Watch how they climb carefully so you learn how the "pros" do it. At a comp, beta is like gold.
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girlclimb
Apr 5, 2004, 3:08 AM
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start on easier problems, make sure you keep enjoying yourself, watch other climbers so you can learn.
GOOD LUCK and have fun! :D
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mr8615
Apr 5, 2004, 3:18 AM
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Bouldering comps aren't usually about the 'comp' part. It's just a bunch of climbers getting together to have a great time. Enjoy it. Usually comps are a good chance to watch climbers who are much better than you (or at least me), so that will be a benefit, like others said, watch and learn. I love comps because I always have such a good time and meet tons of awesome people.
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reprieve
Apr 5, 2004, 3:27 AM
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In reply to: At a comp, beta is like gold.
word. Also, conserve energy so you can climb at a reasonable level throughout the comp instead of burning out real fast.
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iclimbtoo
Apr 5, 2004, 3:45 AM
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WINNING IS EVERYTHING!!!!!!!! No, I'm just kidding! :lol: Have a good time, and keep your eyes open...watch everyone and be observant. Alot of times actions (or climbing) will teach you more than anything. Just don't get too caught up watching. And try jumping on something that puts you out of your comfort range.
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daytonagtp
Apr 5, 2004, 4:04 AM
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haveing competed in a few bouldering comps. (4) and haveing placed 2nd for the intermediate catagory twice i agree with what the others have said about scouting problems before the comp and even watching pros warm up on those v4's and v5's that i wanted to send get the beta then send
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hulgan
May 3, 2004, 8:02 PM
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On a related note I'm considering entering a bouldering comp at the end of this month. The novice class is V0-V2 so I'd probably enter that.
I've been climbing about 3 months now. I'm 6',1", 30 years old and fairly strong.
Would entering the novice class be sandbagging? On the one hand I'm extremely new to climbing and I don't want to be shamed in an upper class but on the other I don't want to steal anything from younger, weaker climbers.
Do people of all ages usually compete against each other or would I end up climbing against a 12 year old? It seems like a hollow victory to beat a child, regardless of their experience.
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jhump
May 3, 2004, 8:15 PM
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In reply to: On a related note I'm considering entering a bouldering comp at the end of this month. The novice class is V0-V2 so I'd probably enter that. I've been climbing about 3 months now. I'm 6',1", 30 years old and fairly strong. Would entering the novice class be sandbagging? On the one hand I'm extremely new to climbing and I don't want to be shamed in an upper class but on the other I don't want to steal anything from younger, weaker climbers. Do people of all ages usually compete against each other or would I end up climbing against a 12 year old? It seems like a hollow victory to beat a child, regardless of their experience.
There are some sick 12 year olds serving up humble pie to 30 somethings. When they beat you, it will be a hollow victory for them to whip a 30 year old fogie :D . V8 and mid 5.13 is not unheard of for climbers that age. Be sure to wear a beanie, like in the mags. I say go for intermediate and get spanked, but if you score higher than the novice winner, you will know you could have won novice. Have fun.
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bouldering-bumm
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May 3, 2004, 8:55 PM
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It depends on if its top 5 or all points. top 5, just try to get 5 in, then beat your lowest points
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dredsovrn
May 3, 2004, 9:17 PM
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At my first one (only one until it comes around next year) I spent way too much time working on two problems that were at the peak of my ability and not really my style. That wasn't smart. I burned myself out so much I couldn't do easy problems. Oh yeah, I had to leave early too (that didn't help).
Next time, I will take more time checking out the problems and come up with a plan. If a problem is kicking my butt after a few tries, I will move on and maybe come back later. I will also take more rest time (planning ahead and not having to leave early will help) between problems.
That being said, I think I finished dead last in my group and had a great time. My goal wasn't a score, it was to push outside my comfort zone and try something new. I will definitely go back again next year.
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madriver
May 3, 2004, 9:36 PM
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...it depends on if you want to do well (try and win) or just see how you stack up. An effective strategy might be to warm up (2-3) problems on easy problems. Jump into some moderate to hard problems fairly soon. As stated before, watch others for beta. Knock off (3-4) fairly hard problems. You will gain more adrenaline the harder the send. Working the mid-range to hard problems early will give you a better shot at a send, if you do not have Sharma like stamina. After you send (3-4) mid to hard probs, go for the hard stuff, something a grade or two above your current best. You will be surprised what adrenaline can do for you at a comp. BTW ..this is if the comp is "Best Five". If this fails ...NEVER MIND..LOL!! :D You can always drop back and send your normal grade and turn in your card. Try hard and go for it! You have nothing to lose and only upside if you crank. Good luck and let us know how you make out.
BA :D
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boulder_boy
May 3, 2004, 9:53 PM
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lol funny thing I got second in intermediate but I was climbing this route that was kidna by a poorly padded part and fell at teh top of teh problem and got a fracture in my ankle....its in such a bad spot that I cant climb or do anything for 3-6 months Im so pissed off.
plus I just barely started getting really kinda good....I would have gotten first in intermediate if I wouldnt have hurt my self but at least I got some shoes a shirt and some get well kisses from the ladies :D
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hulgan
May 4, 2004, 1:08 PM
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Thanks for the advice guys. I don't know a thing about how competitions are run so I'll have to get some info from the organizers.
If I understood you correctly If I climb something that turns out to be a v3 then I'm automatically in the intermediate class right? So asside from getting more fatigued by climbing harder problems there's no downside to trying harder stuff. If it's too hard I can do the easier ones and automatically get ranked as a novice.
Hope I got that straight.
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johnathon78
Oct 9, 2004, 1:45 AM
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just have fun my man!
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hardrock_chik
Oct 30, 2004, 12:05 PM
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If it is a Pumpfest style they usually give a certain amount of time to just climb what you can. the scoring for the one I competed in counted my top 10 problems and the points they were worth. they're more informal than difficulty climbing but ive only ever been to one bouldering comp. so yeah... hope that helps!
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