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ladsquared
Jul 24, 2003, 5:33 PM
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Registered: Jul 12, 2003
Posts: 72
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im not very familiar with climbing comps, but i would like to get into some comps. im 20 and female. i can onsight 5.9 climbs, and i can jump on some 5.10 climbs as well. im pushing 5.11, slowly but steadily. i have recently started to really climb hard and motivate myself to improve my technique and strength. a year ago, i had only began to climb at all.
so, can anyone offer any advice to me? (preferably positive advice...)
Lesley
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cbeltrano
Jul 24, 2003, 5:43 PM
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Registered: May 22, 2003
Posts: 131
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if you're really in to the competition thing check out your local gym and talk to the owner.... usually any competition coming through the area will be advertised there and are easy to sign up for.... some will have different categories you can enter in so that you're not up against those who can on-sight a 13d.... of course some jump down a level to increase their chances (bad sportsmanship in my opinion) depending on how many come through your area you might want to go and check one out before competing.....
hope that helps
oh and good luck
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xanx
Jul 24, 2003, 6:24 PM
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Registered: Aug 6, 2002
Posts: 1002
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yeah most comps run between $20 and $30 US at least in my area. Some have different formats, but around my area bouldering comps are run where each problem is worth a certain number of points, u record ur falls, and u get minus 1 point for each fall (so if u fall 3 times on a 20 point problem then get it, you get 17 points). Your top 5 or whatever point value climbs are added up, and sometimes there are finals. In these, the top 5 or top 3 or whatever climbers in a division each get like 5 minutes to do a new "finals" boulder problem. whoever gets the furthes in 5 minutes wins. sometimes there are multiple finals problems, sometimes each move on the finals problems is worth a certain number of points, and these points are used to determine first, second, third ect... place. For really big comps, there are judges and you have to line up to try a problem. for smaller comps, u just get someone to sign ur paper who saw u do a climb.
don't stress about not climbing hard at comps - different setters and different gyms can make a big difference, plus sometimes u just have bad days, and some ppl just don't climb hard inside (me!). it is better to compete in a category slightly above ur level than one slightly below it (e.g. u think u are somewhere between beginner and intermediate, go with intermediate. u may be able to take first in beginner, but u will climb harder if u are competing against stronger ppl. plus, sandbagging sux).
good luck, have fun!
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